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1. Traveling on the Airlines with your stove
   1a-Other Travel Tips-Gear Bags, and Weight Scales
2. Hydration/Cooking/Waste Management Systems in the Extremes
3. About Ice Axes
4. Crampon Types and Usages
5. Tipping your Guide
6. A Climber's Prayer & Teton Blessing for Climbers and their Equipment
7. Mountain Vernacular
8. Common Equipment Failure above 15,000ft
9. Ideas for Carrying Ice Screws (both in the field and travel only)
10. Insulating the Head of your Mountain Axe (piolet)
    1. Usages of Mastic Tape, alternative grip areas of your axe
    2. Ideas for Protecting the pick of your axe in travel, including technical axes
    3. Ideas for protecting your snow saw blade for pack carry
11. Knots for Mountaineering & Tips for Cordelettes & Prusiks
12. Sun Protection(sunscreens, nose guards, hats, glasses)
13. Equipment Repairs & Custom Sewing
    
    
    

1) Traveling on the Airlines with your Stove and Fuel Bottles

HOW TO AVOID DONATING YOUR STOVE EQUIPMENT TO THE TSA AT THE AIRPORT

CLIMBERS ARE PERMITTED TO CHECK CAMP STOVES and FUEL BOTTLES ON THE AIRLINES! (and other people too)

Although each Airline has their own approach, guidelines, and interpretation of the TSA (Transportation Security Administration) regulations as it relates to checking your camp stove equipment, according to the TSA, it is legal, and safe to take your camp stove, lighters and fuel bottles (not compressed fuel container types) to your climbing destination, on the Airlines with certain restrictions that must be followed.

NOTE: Information on this site may not contain information as to any updates to the guidelines or restrictions pertaining to checking your camp stoves with the Airlines. Please thoroughly research the TSA's current approved procedure for traveling by air with Camp Stoves.

For the most updated and accurate information, go to: www.tsa.gov or more specifcally: http://www.tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel/assistant/editorial_1187.shtm

Read and Understand these topic areas on the TSA website:
-Camping
-Traveling with Special Items

Climbers should prepare and pack their camp stoves and fuel bottles ( absolutely no compressed fuel containers) carefully so that you don't have to surrender camp stoves at the security checkpoint or have them removed from their checked baggage. A specific list of all permitted and prohibited items can be found at www.tsa.gov.

What about your lighters? You are permitted to carry two (2) "bic" type lighters in your Carry-On only, NOT CHECKED LUGGAGE! Read more information about this is on the TSA Website, link below: http://www.tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel/assistant/editorial_multi_image_with_table_0099.shtm

Below is information specific to camping equipment published by the TSA, as of August, 2010:
"Camp Stoves - These can travel as carry-on or checked luggage only if they are empty of all fuel and cleaned so that there are no vapors or residue left. Simply emptying the fuel container will leave flammable vapors. We recommend that you ship the fuel containers to your destination ahead of time - passengers frequently have to leave them at the checkpoint because of fuel vapors".

Gasoline, White Gas, or Fuel Canisters- You cannot bring any flammable liquids, including gasoline, in either your carry-on or checked luggage.

WHAT TO DO BEFORE YOU LEAVE FOR THE AIRPORT
Visit the TSA website, and print out three copies of the page concerning stoves (click here or see link below for a pdf of this page from the TSA website, but check that is matches the current information on the website), and attach one printout securely to your stove, and one to your fuel bottle (if separate from your stove). Completely empty your fuel container a few days before your flight, rinse with soap, and allow your bottle to completely dry. Never pack pre-bottled /compressed fuels ( buy those at your destination). Make sure the lid to your fuel container is removed and duct-taped to your fuel bottle, or packed separately somewhere else in your luggage. DO NOT LEAVE THE CAP ON YOUR FUEL BOTTLE. IT MUST BE OBVIOUS TO THE TSA OFFICIALS THAT THE BOTTLE IS EMPTY, CLEANED, and AIRED OUT. Attach a note that states "Fuel Cap Removed to demonstrate that this bottle is empty of fuel, has been cleaned and aired, and is absent of fuel vapors". (Click here or on the link below for a PDF of this Fuel Cap note to TSA) IMPORTANT: Days before travel, thoroughly empty, air out, and clean your bottle(s) and stove. Make sure there is no residual fuel vapors, or smell of fuel. Open the fuel valve on your stove and shake vigorously to drain any fuel in the system. Leave the fuel valve open to properly air out. Along with your attachment of the TSA regulations to both your bottle and stove, attach a second note to the TSA that states:

Dear TSA,

Please Note: THIS EQUIPMENT IS SAFE FOR TRAVEL

(Please see attached regulations from the TSA website)

With respect to your posted regulations, Please DO NOT confiscate this stove and fuel bottle(s). There is NO FUEL and NO FUEL VAPORS in this stove or fuel bottle, and the fuel cap has been removed so that this equipment can be easily inspected.

This camping stove equipment, has been properly aired, cleaned and dried, according to your recommendations on the TSA website, and is safe to travel in checked luggage. This equipment fully complies with your posted guidelines and procedures for transporting camp stoves.

Thank you for ensuring my equipment travels to my destination.

Attach above letters, and copy of the requirements as stated on the TSA Website. Always check for current requirements. The above PDF of the statement on the TSA website is current as of 10-2010, and may or may not have been updated.

MORE SUGGESTIONS: Carry with you, at check in, a copy of the most current TSA regulations regarding traveling with stoves (printed from that page on the TSA website). Because you are in compliance with the regulations, in is not needed nor a good idea to disclose that you are checking a camp stove, unless asked. If asked, be sure to always disclose, and inform them that you are doing so, in complete compliance with the most current TSA regulations. During this conversation with the check-in agent, you be equipped to provide a print-out of these regulations you are adhearing to, and you can demonstrate this compliance by opening your gear bag or back, and showing them. Always pack these items where there is very fast access to the stove, both by you, the TSA officials or check-in agents. HIDING THESE ITEMS IS NOT NECESSARY NOR RECOMMENDED AS IT CAN INVITE CAUSE FOR CONCERN, and impeed addressing this situation quickly.

Backpacks are already suspect, and they expect that there could be a stove. If you are not placing your backpack inside a large duffel, then make sure your stove is right on top. Consider attaching a note to the outside of the pack that states there is a stove/fuel bottles inside, and that they are prepared for safe travel according to the TSA requirements.

Avoid any confrontation with the check-in agent, and approach the situation as to not prove anyone wrong, but simply show that you are meeting your responsibility by complying. If needed, ask if a supervisor can help, and demonstrate that you are in compliance. Be sure to have ample time before your flight, a full 1/2 hour earlier than normal is absolutely recommended.. If questioned and challenged, BE PREPARED TO LOSE YOUR STOVE, as every airline (especially in international situations at foreign airports) has thier own interpretation and practices, regardless of the published TSA guidelines, as well as each check-in agent (unfortunately). Avoid the temptation to be argumentative, and remember that these agents and TSA officials are doing their best to ensure that all passengers are safe. Threat Levels and regulations can change instantly, and individuals (TSA and Check-In Agents) can make their own judgements in every situation, as they have been trained and certified to make a judgement call on these situations. Be pleasant, and firm on your efforts to check safe items, but undertanding of their concerns to keep passengers safe. You will be more successful when you do not have the attitude of proving an agent or TSA official as wrong. Another good approach is to say that you are "confused", and wish to have clarification, as you have the understanding that you are in compliance according to published regulations. That said, AS THERE IS NO GUARANTEE THAT YOU CAN TRAVEL WITH YOUR STOVE, BE PREPARED TO LOSE YOUR STOVE AND/OR, BEFORE YOU LOSE YOUR SEAT. The methods offered here have been proven effective, but we have had reports that it worked on one leg of travel, but not the return. Its always situational.

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1a) Other Travel Tips for Climbers using the Airlines

Days before flying, as you pack your gear bags, check your air carrier's website or call to ask about exact size dimensions and weight allowed for checked luggage. Some airlines these days are charging you a fee for your checked luggage, and perhaps soon for carry-on's, but they will also assess a significant extra sur-charge ($50-$100) for gear bags that are larger than their allowed standard dimensions. The standard allowable specifications on checked luggage seem to allow for (2) two checked bags, weighing a maximum of 50lbs, and a linear measurement (Length + Width+Height) of no more than 62 inches. Bags weighing from 50-100lbs, or bags that have a linear measurement of 62-80 inches, will require an excess weight or dimension surcharge. Bags over 80 inches or over 100lbs will have to be checked as freight.

No matter how large the gear bag, there is always a weight limit. We highly recommend weighing each bag, days before you go to the airport. As mentioned above, the usual weight limit is 50lbs, and if you are going on a big trip, you can produce two or more gear bags that weight exactly 50lbs. Weighing your gear bags is not that easy unless you have a "hang scale", which we just happen to offer you on this site. Its also a good idea to take this scale with you, as you may need it to make sure you are correctly weighted upon your return (sometimes we buy things on our trips). It is no fun at the check counter to be unpacking and moving things from one gear bag to the next, to hopefully arrive at that magic weight number without going over. The airline staff and others waiting behind you don't enjoy this process either. I had fun with this at the airport in Lima, Peru, and I don't speak much spanish. It was hard to communicate what I was trying to accomplish, but I could read their body language and the number on the scale to understand that my one of two bags was way over the limit. Until the airlines start charging for "carry-on", we suggest you absolutely stuff your carry-on with all your heavier gear, such as your climbing rack, and even ice screws (although you may have to explain those to TSA at the security checkpoint. I have been succesfull getting those through many times, but they are a little suspect, given the sharp points, and they just look wierd to non-climbers). Doing this will help free up space and weight in your checked gear bags.

We offer several choices of burly gear bags, duffels, or expedition luggage that are within most dimension requirements for checked luggage with the airlines. The Burro Expedition Luggage gear bag by Wild Things seems to fit most checked luggage requirements, but you can go larger (just have pay more, but it still has to be within the weight requirements) with the Mule Expedition Luggage gear bag by Wild Things. We also sell a perfectly sized Carry-On gear bag by Wild Things. Click here to see the all our offered Expedition Luggage/Gear Bags/Duffels, including the Carry-On. Click here to view the Expedition Digital Scale by Feedback Sports.

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2) Hydration/Cooking/Waste Mgt. Systems in the Extremes

Topics
Water Bottles
Water Bladder System Usage in Winter and at Higher Altitudes
High-dro Brassiere System (the solution to bladders in the extremes)
Importance of Fuel Bottle Jackets
Calorie Intake with your Hydration
Melting Snow for Water
An Ideal Capacity for your Boiler Pot
Thermometer Use for Increased Fuel Efficiency
Stove Bases
Windscreens
Bowls & Mugs
Pee Bottles & Waste Management

________________

Water Bottles
Bottles are absolutely the best way to go, but, we will reveal one of the best kept secrets to using bladders. About bottles; look into the Hunersdorff High Altitude Water Bottles found on this site, for any winter or cold temperature outing, above or below 15,000ft. Why? What's wrong with the trusted outdoor standard, Nalgene bottles? There is nothing wrong with Nalgene's bottles for many uses ( and they are very durable), but when freezing temperatures are present, the Nalgene bottles can begin to show areas of compromise. Its not that any bottle will prevent your water from freezing, its how your bottle behaves in extremely low temperatures, related to your water beginning to freeze or if that has already happened. Here is the comparison. Hunerdorff bottles are both BPA free, and pliable. The pliability of the material allows you to easily clear any ice build up, and the bottle will not crack or split in the coldest of temperatures. The cap on the Hunersdorff bottle gives you more benefit in multiple ways. First, it is made out of the same pliable material that that bottle body is made out of, thus it has some pliability, and will not crack or split in extreme cold. Nalgene's caps are a different material, and can and will eventually split when frozen. On a nalgene the cap material behaves differently than the material used for the bottle body. Secondly, a Hunersdorff cap is much larger, has a much wider and thicker thread pattern, and has large ribs on the outside for ease in gripping (even with gloves or mitts on). The thicker threads aid in clearing ice on a frozen bottle...hence they are much easier to open when frozen, and way easier to get a grip on the bottle. Not the case with Nalgene. Hunersdorff bottles are also available in a 1.5L size in addition to the standard 32oz (1Liter size). We sell Hunersdorff replacement caps, not because they break, but because they are not attached (one draw back), and you could loose one. There is however a punishment if you lose one, besides the obvious. The cap on the bottle when you buy it new from us is yellow in color, which is easy to see, and hard to lose. But, the replacement Hunersdorff caps are opaque, like the bottle body, which are hard to see if set down in the snow, thus the consequences to losing the original cap. NEVER use a "narrowed mouth" water bottle out in the cold temperatures, for several reasons. First, the opening with freeze over much faster, than a wide mouth bottle. Also, it is more difficult to add snow into your water to increase your liquid volume, and it is very difficult to efficiently pour water into the bottle(you can spill very valuable water that you used very valuable fuel to melt snow, and what happens with a wet glove/mitt from your spillage?) when the opening is narrow. More about keeping your bottle opening clear of ice is below.

Any bottle containing water can freeze solid, but there are many ways to make sure you have water in liquid state, so you can stay hydrated. First, always use an insulator, or also known as a bottle jacket. Some of the best insulators are made by 40 Below, also found on this site. If utilizing the 1 Liter version of the Hunersdorff bottle, you have more options on other excellent insulators, such as Granite Gear's Aquatherm Bottel Insulator model, and the Mil-Spec Insulated Water Bottle Carrier model. NOTE: The new and improved 'Nalgene Brand" insulators are too tight for the 1Liter Hunersdorff, and in fact, they are too tight for the 32oz Nalgene bottle in which they were designed for. We sent our entire order of these back to the distributor days after we received them...and we hope Nalgene has already figured this out and are correcting the problem, as their insulators, before they improved them, worked very well, and had a nice price. Any of these jackets won't prevent freezing entirely, but they signifcantly slow the process, especially if you began with warm or boiling water. Forgot to mention that the Hunersdorff bottles will endure boiling water, year after year. Place your water bottle upside down in the insulator, or however you store your bottle (unless you are sleeping with it) in your pack. This will significantly help prevent the water from freezing all the way across the opening. As long as that opening stays clear of a freeze over, you can at least get at some water, or if you are near your stove, you can get all your water unfrozen very quickly.

The bottle jackets give a bit of a thermos effect, so the more you can aid that along, the better. Wrap up the insulated bottle in a jacket and place in your pack. When sleeping, alway have all of your water in the tent, wrapped in a jacket and preferable in your sleeping bag with you. This is where good insulators perform, as not only do they help prevent your water from freezing, they also slow or don't allow transfer of the potentially "colder" temperature of the water to pull heat from your bag or body. If the bottle is stored idle in the tent while you are out climbing, make sure its wrapped if possible, and always on top of your ground pad.

Other tips about water and cold temps; don't fill your bottles all the way up, leave 1.5 inches or so below the rim, or more. Also, you have seen these "designer metal" water bottles everywhere right? You may even own one. This is kind of obvious, but for the sake of making sure this information is as complete as possible, let me state that metal water bottles are great for going to work, school and clipping to a bookpack with a "not for climbing" carabiner. Metal water bottles have no business up high in the mountains, or in colder temperatures, even if they have a design on them that separates you from anyone else. The next time you see someone's lip stuck to their nearly frozen metal water bottle, direct them to this site for further information. Placing your tonque on a frozen flagpole or charlift support is about the same as drinking from a metal water bottle out in the cold backcountry.

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Water Bladder System Usage in Winter and at Higher Altitudes
What about bladders? To use the name for these that is now a generic term, what we are referring to here are the "camelback" systems and all the various simular brands. First off, there are "winter insulators for the drinking tubes of these these systems, and we carry the Granite Gear Winterizer option. If you have ever used your bladder system (camelback type) in the winter, skiing, climbing, etc., then you already know the challenges. At the very least, for some of these activities, get a winterizer for the drinking tube if you don't have one already. Always have a back-up wide mouth water bottle or two. Also, many of the various brands make a more "insulated" version of the main pocket or sleeve (what houses the bladder) for winter usage. Use those versions also at a minimum, for winter activity. Next, what happens when you use your "naked" bladder slotted in the provided pocket built right into your expedition or climbing pack? Well as you know, the tube can still freeze, the mouth piece can still freeze, and the body heat generated from your back does not transfer at a rate and efficiency to reach your bladder preventing your from icing or completely freezing (depends on conditions and altitude). Many, if not most climbing pack manufacturers do build in this hydration bladder pocket, and a hole for your tube to feed through (Wild Things packs don't bother with it). This is a nice feature during warmer temperatures at lower altitudes, but at higher altitudes and extreme cold, there is nothing but hassles with the bladder systems, for all the reasons mentioned above. Many pack manufacturers offer you elaborate (and heavy) back pad systems that allow air to circulate some between your back, and the backpack's back pad. This only adds to the problem of your bladder system icing up. You get to pay extra for it, and carry the extra weight (might be nice for warmer temps, but like we throughout this site, above 15,000ft, everything changes about how your standard gear behaves). The sleeves and tube hole become a useless feature, and just add more material weight. But there is one solution!

Introducing the "High-dro Brassiere System", the best kept secret, if you want to use a bladder system. We didn't think of it, but it works, and it works well. You probably have never seen anything like it, or may have never have even heard of such a system that I am about to tell you about. I got this idea after talking with Brent Bishop, back in 1998, during his speaking tour with the Everest IMAX film promotion. I cornered him for good ideas and advice on equipment for high altitude, and among many excellent nuggets of first hand information, he shared with me this awesome idea. Brent comes from experience. In 1963, Brent's father, Barry (Barrel) Bishop summited Everest with the first American team to summit the world's tallest mountain. Brent owns Barrel Mountaineering in Bozeman, Montana, naming his operation after his father. Brent summited Everest in 1994 with this bladder system idea, and to my knowledge, he may have came up with it...I just came up with the corny name, he may have another one for this system. Brent is involved in a wide clean up effort on Everest, and has orchestrated the removal of over 20,000 pounds of left behind "trash" and equipment off the mountain, giving a whole new definition to pack it in/pack it out.

Making youself a custom "High-dro Brassier". Buy the best bladder and tube system you can find....I won't recommend any brands here. Make sure the bladder is at a "medium" capacity, not any longer than around 11" in length. Wearing one of these takes some getting used to, and you want to minimize the "bunching up" of this system between your packs sternum strap and your climbing harness/and or pack belt. ( a maximum of a 50oz Bladder is recommended) Then, find the best insulated "pocket/sleeve" (bladder pack) with or without a built in harness (some are sold without a harness built on) system out there that will perfectly house the capacity of your bladder.. Here comes the weird part, and the harder part. You are going to take your pack/harness to a good sewing/pack repair place. You are going to convert the harness system (or add one) to enable you to wear the pocket (thus the bladder) in front. The harness will have to be completely re-fabricated with very thin (but strong) materials and mesh, elastic webbing material. Where the sternum strap would be, have no plastic buckles, but install a horizonal strip of elastic material to "act" like a sternum strap, but it will obviously be at the back. The harness system has to be created with very thin materials, as to not create bulky areas, as you will have your pack on over it. I had a "Victoria Secret" label sewn into the back of mine just for kicks.

Getting more fancy, but an excellent and useful suggestion, have your sewer add on small vertical pockets to the outside of the bladder sleeve, for quick access ( and non-frozen) nutrition (gels and bars), and your lip protection. Make the pockets very steamlined, not bulky. Have velcro closures. Make them to wear they only perfectly fit what you intend to put in the pockets. Likely you will need to take gloves off to get at these nutrients from these small vertical pockets. The good thing is, its very accessable, and they won't ever freeze while you are wearing it (unless you don't have a layer of clothing over it).

Essentially, the end result is that you wear this thing over the first layer of your clothing, then wear at least one other layer, if not all your layers that you utilize for your moving/aerobic activity. The tube stays tucked inside the main pocket, you take it out as you need it, although it still needs to have the winterizing "upgrade" on the tube and mouthpiece.

If you have a shorter torso, you will need to use a lower capacity bladder, less than 10 or 11" in length.. You don't want the bladder pocket to be super long, as it will begin to get in the way, expecially when wearing a harness.

This system will require you to change your heavier or mid-weight layers some. In order to get acesss to the tube and "nutrition" pockets, you will require a 1/4 zip mid-layer (or heavier), or full zip. Some brands offer a pullover in a little more than a 1/4 zip, like 1/3.

This really works. Ya, its funny. Ya, it takes some getting used to. Yes, its a little bulky up front, does get bunched up when you are bending over, and does ride some on the top of your harness/pack belt (which is why you need to choose a bladder shorter in length, no more than 10-11"). I used this system on on Denali (took it to the top), and in Peru. Brent Bishop (whom I got this idea from) took his to Everest, and perhaps on summit day as I remember, and many other peaks. Call us or email us to discuss more about how all this works, and how we can aid more in giving you the best direction possible to make the correct harness system to wear your bladder system in front. You can call it a 'camelfront" if you would like, but I like "High-dro Brassiere".

Will this system work well for women?
For most althletic women I think this system would absolutely wear fine. One thing I don't know is how this system would work for some full figured women. Although sport/athletic bras are likely being worn by most women during mountaineering activity, this system may not wear very comfortably, or be manageable for larger breasted gals (say C&D cup sized). Suppose you could just lower the volume of water you pour into the bladder, thus allowing the blader to form a little more around the body to a woman's particular shape (or fill it full and drink the level down to where it fits better).

Here are a few pictures of the system.

More, and better pictures coming.

If you decide to utilize a system such as the Hydro Brassiere, you should always have an extra bladder, and a couple of wide-mouthed water bottles as good back ups, and for around camp.

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OTHER HYDRATION TIPS

Bottle jackets for fuel by 40-Below
When out in the cold or up high, Its smart to utilize a bottle jacket for your fuel bottles. We sell the bottle boot by Forty Below, which is made from neoprene. In extremely low temperatures, your Fuel bottles become very slippery. A bottle jacket not only makes it easier to handle and hold on to, but also provides friction when they are place on the snow when connected to your stove, or on the stove platform. If you are in very low temps and need to sleep with your fuel in your sleeping bag (to prevent the fuel from gelling), these jackets make that much more doable.

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Calorie Intake with your Hydration
One good way to keep up with the needed caloric intake on a alpine push or expedition is to add suplements into your water. This also aids in your hydration requirements, as flavored drinks can encourage more intake. Adding a chocolate Carnation Instant Breakfast packet to your instant coffee in the morning is just one example. At higher altitudes, if you are layering correctly to stay cool and not overheat, you are not sweating much, and if you are not sweating much, then be careful not to over do it with electrolyte replacement supplements. At the same time, drinking too much pure water can at a point, begin to flush valuable nutrients from your body. Utilize drink supplements that contain calories, sodium replacements, etc., with moderate levels of electrolytes.

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Melting Snow for Water
Establish a place on the snow or glacier that is a known safe path for walking at night with booties on. Clear of crevassed areas, and very clear of your "potty" spot. Have a designated large stuff sack to scoop snow into for melting, and haul that back to camp. That way, you are pulling cleaner snow than from the immediate area around your camp. Utilizing a snow bag increases your efficiency in keeping up with creating the fluids you need for cooking and drinking. A good tool to scoop snow is the GSI Fair Share Mug, which of course, also makes an excellent mug/cup with a lid. The Fair Share mug is the perfect size to get decent sized scoops of snow into your snow bag, and to then scoop snow into your boiler pot.

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An Ideal Capacity for your Boiler Pot = Increased Fuel Efficiency
For say a team of two climbers, when it comes to your main pot you use to melt snow with, avoid the tall and narrow models, as they present stability issues, and not having an opening wide enough to ease in the filling of snow for melting. A wider pot reduces the amount of spilling when you are adding snow, which may end up melting on your stove base, heat reflectors or interfering with your flame. Also, since most water bottles are 32oz or so, I have found that a wider and not so tall pot with a 2L+ capacity ( 2L-2.5L) is ideal, and efficient. In one melting session of snow, you can fill (2) water bottles to the appropriate level (1.5" below the rim, to allow for expansion in freezing temps), and pour a small hot cup of coffee for two in one round of snow melting. Having a "spout" on your pot is key, but they are hard to find. Up high, and on winter excursions, water and fuel are gold. The less fuel you use the better, the less water you spill the better. Pots with spouts help you deliver all your valuable water to your cup, bowl, or water bottle/bladder with minimal waste due to spilling. Also, it helps you avoid soaking your camp work gloves.

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Thermometer Use for Increased Fuel Efficiency
Consider throwing a kitchen thermometer in your kit to help with stretching your fuel efficiency, and enabling you to carry less fuel. The idea behind this is that you pre-establish a tolerable water temperature for hot drinks and cooking; not too hot, not too cool. Doing this will prevent excessive and dimishing returns of continued heating of your water, after the snow has melted.

This method will conserve very valuable fuel, and weight. How many times have you prepared water from melting snow or otherwise, only to have it be too hot to the lips, and you had to allow it to cool before you drank or ate? This resulted in wasting fuel that could have been used for more snow melting, or if you get it down to a science, you can carry less fuel altogether.

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Stove Bases & Windscreens, also equals increased Fuel Efficiency
On mountain sides everywhere, pots topple, spilling very precious water, prepared by melting snow melting. When fuel is at a premium as a tool to sustain the climbing team with the ability to create water, and prepare meals, camps everywhere still suffer from pots full of water sliding off of the stove, spilling water that cost valuable fuel to produce. You know the scenario. When operating your stove ontop of packed snow, the heat reflected from the stove melts out the snow surface below the stove, and at some point, the weight of the contents in you pot, will cause the stove to dip and eventually tip over. Teams may utilize many homemade or manufactured remedies to
this problem, but many of them fail due to warping, or just a unreliable reduction of the issue.

Kevin Slotterbeck, a climber and former materials engineer and specialist with the very well known climbing and rescue hardware manufacturing company, SMC (Seattle Manufacturing Company) initially tackled this problem for his own excursions, and for his large circle of guiding friends and guiding companies. Now, Kevin produces two types of stove bases that solve the problem of toppling pots, and also provide not only a built in heat refector, but a removeable pot stabilizer. On this site, we offer both models of RDM Stovebases, one for smaller teams, one for larger teams, with the difference being based on the size of pot you are using to sustain the hydration and nutrition needs of your climbing team. The equipment is collapsable, and slots in your pack nicely against your back, adding very little weight, and taking up almost no space at all. Best part, Kevin already did all the material research for you, producing two stove base models with the lightest possible materials that will withstand heat and maintain the integrity required to keep your stove level, and not allow the melting of snow under or around the stove to cause instability to your system.

The RDM Stove Bases are designed to work with stoves with fuel tanks that are separate from the stove itself, which includes many models of "canister fuel stoves". Each model comes with a removable pot support. The pot support spans a wider diameter for your pot, thus giving you an option to to use larger capacity pots, and providing you with much increased stabilization of whatever pot you use. The pot support built in to your stove simply slides underneath the optional wider and stronger pot support on the RDM Stove base.

NOTE: With one's own good and thorough judgement, and at one's own risk and extensive and appropriate assessment of your equipment, many teams consider using the 12" RDM Stove Base with multiple stoves. We are not recommending this here at all, and to also not recommend this usage of the stove base, Kevin Slotterbeck who has designed this sytem does not advocate this at all. In fact, a warning sticker is on each stove base system to deter users from utilizing the stove base in this way. In addition, stove manufacturer MSR doesn't advocate this method either, for any purpose, with or without a stove base of any kind. . This has to do with the production of excessive heat by multiple stoves in a very close proximity, which increases issues with potential dangers with excessive flames and heat near the fuel bottles or canisters, as well as potentialy overheating or melting of the metal materials your pot system is made from. However, many groups still do it....just say'in. And, with very careful consideration of stove and tank placement, and accessment of the durability of the materials your pot system is made out of, there is quite enough space on the 12" Expedition to utilize multiple stoves, but only consider doing this ate at your own risk, and well knowing that the manufacturer warns against such usage of the product. . Many larger groups, after appropriate evaluation of materials, and in taking the risk in using the product well beyond the scope of the manufacturer's recommendation, consider this option as they can ultize a gigantic pot for the group, and not have to rely on one stove to efficiently heat that much suface area and volumn of snow/water. As a retailer of these products, let it be known that Bradley Alpinist is in support of the manufacturers recommendations, and does not advocate the usuage of these stove bases with more than one stove simultaneously. If you choose to use the product with multiple stove, you are doing so at your own risk, and with your own evaluation of the materials, stove and tank placement to ensure the safety of your climbing team.

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Windscreens
Windscreens have a huge influence on fuel efficiency, and reduction of heating time for your drinks and meals. Often the windscreens that are included with your new stove, either wear out or are not effective enough in some situations. We offer two models of windscreens that do the job much better. One such screen is made by RDM (pictured below at right being used in conjuction with a MSR Windscreen) and is designed to primarily work with their 12" Expedition Stove base, but can be used for any stove, with or without a stove base. Another option is a 5-Panel (pictured below at left) hinged windscreen.

WARNING: It is not recommended to use a wrap around windscreen when using canister stove. The screen could cause the canister to overheat and explode, resulting in serious injury and burns. See more on the disadvantages of canister stoves.

We also offer the windscreen/heat reflector by MSR (the replacement screen for the Whisperlite and XGK-EX stoves).

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Bowls/Insulated Mugs & Utensils

We want to talk a little about a worthwhile campware concept that compliments the "light is right" philosophy in Alpinism. First, it is assumed that if you are going minimalist, with one or two climbing partners, you may be taking one 2L-2.5L Pot "boiler" for the group, and prepare only "add-water" meals, such as prepared freeze dried dinners, soups, instant coffee, etc. If not, at least its an idea. Pots with less than 2 L capacity, for two to three climbers are not as efficient if you have the need to melt snow for water. If you are not having to melt snow for water, then a less than 2L pot volume its certainly a viable option. When you consider fuel efficiencies, it is best to have a larger pot ( 2L-2.5L), but not to large, so you can fill bottles and hand out a partial hot cup of something to each climber, in one round of snow melting. Packing in freeze dried meals, soups, energy drinks, teas and coffees, you save fuel and water that you would otherwise require for cleaning up the pot. Carrying a single pot with ideal capacity save weight and space.

For personal eating ware, each of you really only require a bowl, a insulated mug, and a spork (spoon/fork combo). You can also argue that you can take one big bowl, and it serves as your mug too, but mugs should be insulated, and its hard to find one large enough for food, that would also serve as a mug. The GSI Fairshare Bowl can certainly pull that off, but it is not insulated. Besides, it is uselful to have a separate insulated drinking mug, so you can drink something hot (hydrate) while you enjoy your meal.

If you take a GSI Fairshare Bowl, and hacksaw off the handle, you save room in your pack. A Sea to Summit Delta Mug, or GSI Infinity Mug (all shown below) will fit inside the Fairshare Bowl. For the climber schleping the boiler pot, his/her Fairshare Bowl (with sawed off handle, and nesting mug and spork (folding or sawed off) will fit nicely inside. A compact, very lightweight and non-compromising cookware/eating ware package. (see the "nested cooking system" photos a little ways down the page)

It is not only helpful, but essential, that both your bowl and mug have a lid. This preserves heat, and prevents spilling of the contents. In the case of instant soups and other instant-type meals, a lid is key to keeping all the heat in while the food is hydrating. You can then tote a titanium folding spork (or cut down other lexan/ or metal eating utensils), that will nest inside your mug, and you have a very compact campware system that gives you the best situation for personal eating ware. No metal materials, no stainless metal rims on your mug, or stainless liners to suck out the heat or feel cold to the touch. No fancy shaped bowl/mugs that compromise stability when set down inside of your tent or out on the snow. No high tech space age squishy silicon non- stable materials that deform when you hold it or grip it (work great for dogs). These selections are all wide and rigid for the stability you need when you set your drink or meal down in the tent or outside in your camp area, and while you handle it when feeding yourself and hydrating.

The GSI Infinty Mug, and Sea to Summit Delta Mug are both double walled, and keep your drink hot for plenty of time to set it down for a while and do other tasks while you enjoy your hot drink. No handles to take up extra room in your pack.

( more content to come)

GSI Fairshare Bowl	Sea to Summit Delta Mug	GSI Infinity Mug	GSI Thrive Spork	Brunton Mi-Ti Titanium Spork

A long and wide spoon is key gear for special tasks. To aid in melting snow (stirring), or reaching to the bottom of your freeze dried food pouch, MSR's Alpine Spoon is the deal, and folds up for compactness (but won't fit inside the above mugs), and its crazy light. As an alternative, the Sea to Summit Long Titanium Spoon is also a good call (non-folding), very durable and rigid, and also ultralight..

MSR Alpine Spoon (Folding)	Sea to Summit Long Titanium Spoon

Nested Cooking System

The Cooking Group	Delta Mug and folding spork inside of Fair Share Mug	Fair Share Mug nests inside 2 L Boiler	All Put together

A hacksaw is your friend. If not utilzing a "folding spork", cut down your lexan, stainless, or titanim forks, spoons, or sporks for compactability (fit inside your mug), and for better packing. I recommend "sporks", its a two in one utensil, and just makes sense. If cutting down a metal utensil, round all the cut edges with a metal file.

We offer on this site, two versions of metal sporks. The Brunton Folding Titanium Spork, or the Vargo Titanium Spork. The metal spork in the picture below is a Vargo that has been cut down by hacksaw, for the purposes of fitting the utensil inside a mug for better packability.

BACK TO "HYDRATION/COOKING/WASTE MGT. SYSTEMS IN THE EXTREMES"

Pee Bottles & Waste Management

Enduring long cold nights in your tent, or extensive tent time because of inclimate weather calls for a "pee bottle". You can take any old "wide mouth" bottle, mark it up with a permanent marker, and call it a pee bottle. But, Nalgene's collapsable wide mouth Canteen works the best.

You still need to mark the Canteen up with "DANGER: DO NOT DRINK, CONTAINS MY PEE. THIS IS NOT GATORADE", but this system is easy to manage, dump, roll up and put away, not taking up too much room in your pack. The Nalgene Canteen is available in a 48oz or 96oz. Now, in other areas on this page, it is made mention of the nalgene caps cracking when frozen, etc. But, since these "canteens" would be used in this case for your liquid waste, and are primarily kept warm inside your bag with you, then emptied and carried, the same risks of cracking the lid, such as with your clean water bottles for drinking, is not a risk worth worrying about here for this usage. These Nalgene Canteens are your best solution for PEE bottles.

WOMEN: For women, Urinelle (pictured below) makes a 100% Natural, disposable and biodegradable cone for urinating when tent bound, in a standing or kneeling position. One use only, no plastic funnels to clean, or have to store double wrapped. Comes in a pack of 7.

Bio Bags and Human Waste Containment Bags
Bio Bags are used in glacial crevassed environments to dispose of human waste. The Bio Bags we offer are the same human solid waste bags distributed to climbers on Denali, by the National Park Service. Made of corn starch, these bags biodegrade fast and completely. Designed exclusively for use in glacial environments in which you are pitching your solid human waste into a crevasse. Dimensions: 5 Mil, 20x21. These are sold in quantity increments of 50. This particular type is NOT designed or suitable for "packing out" solid wastes unless combined with an outer protective layer. If you require solid waste bags for packing out your solid wastes, we offer the Restop 2 product in 5-Pack units.

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3) About Ice Axes

Types of Ice Axes and Sizing your Ice Axe

Technical Ice Axes (aka; Ice Tools)-Usualy 50-50cm in length. Used in a pair, and also usually referred to as Ice Tools. Used for very steep, technical climbing, including mixed, and normally on water ice (versus Alpine Ice). Modern versions have a curved shaft to aid in clearing ice features such as buldges, with the swing...which also helps with keeping the knuckles off the ice. Versions include those more specifically designed for mixed climbing, such as re-configured grip positions, leashless, and protrusions to hang/catch your the bottom of your fingers, some even having a "trigger finger" hook. See our offering of technical ice axes.

Alpine Ice Axes-Usually 50-60cm in length. Also referred to as Ice Tools, Primarily used in a pair. Characterized by a straight, or less curved shaft, and picks that are less agressively curved. These are used in steep and technical terrain in the backcountry, usually on Alpine Ice (snow ice vs water ice). See our offering of Alpine ice axes.

Mountain Ice Axe (Piolet)-Available in a variety of lengths, generally ranging from 65-85cm. Used as single axe for glacial travel, low angle slopes, and semi-technical mountaineering on steeper terrain (with a shorter size piolet). Utilized for walking stabilazation in rough terrain, crossing steep slopes, self arrest, or for low angle alpine ice penetration while ascending. See our offering of Mountain Axes (Piolets). See our instructional/Ideas for insulating the top of your mountain axe.

Third Tool-These are shorter tools, 25-33cm, mini versions of an Alpine Axe, usually in a "hammer" versus "adze" version, and primarily designed to be very minimalist. Used either as a back up tool on steep technical ice climbs, or mountaineering, in the case you drop one of your tools. Also common and recommended gear for use in alpinism/mountaineering, to pound in ice pitons and/or snow pickets (as your mountain piolet does not have a hammer head, but an adze). Another functional use of a "third tool" is as a technical alpine axe in case of an occasional steeper terrain obstacle along a general mountaineering route (to temporarily pair up with your piolet). Carried as a single axe. See our offering of third tools.

Sizing your Mountain Axe (Piolet)

Really, when it comes to sizing your Mountain Axe, there are only general guidelines, and no hard and fast rule, and lots of opinions. Much of the sizing has to do with personal preference, and what type of terrain you are primarily interested in climbing. If only glacial travel, your choice in axe length with be a longer axe so that you can use it like a staff, and to prod for hidden crevasses.. As terrain steepens and the angle closes in toward you either ascending straight up or traversing slopes, the length preference of your axe will be shorter.

Sizing has both to do with intended terrain, and your height (with considatation of your arm length). The table below is our "general" attempt to give you ideas as a guideline to make your own choice on length for your mountain axe.

Other Sizing Guidelines for Mountain Axes

With shoes or boots on, and when gripping the axe in a banister or manteling position, hand on top of the pick, standing up straight, with your arm exended down in a relaxed position, the axe spike should hover in a range from right above the ankle level on down to just over the ground, but not touching. The latter would be a good length for general mountaineering terrains. At the ankle or slightly above, would be a reasonable length for mountaineering in steeper terrain (but still non-technical).

So, what if you don't have couple of piolets laying around to evaluate size? Suppose you are considering ordering an axe over the internet or by phone order from us or another fine and helpful retailer? Well, try this. Grab a yard stick, broom stick, or something of the like, and set one end on the ground. Now, standing relaxed, mark where your fingertips hit on this vertical stick. Now measure the distance in centimeters. This will generally be about where the "shorter" version of the spectrum will be. Read on.

I am 6''1", and with the above method, I measure 28ish inches (this measurement varies with your posture, and relaxed stance), which correlates in centimeters to be about a 70cm ice axe (keep in mind that piolets usualy come in size increments of 5cm). A 70cm ice axe for me is right above my ankle ( using the other sizing method in the first paragraph above), thus an ice that would be well sized for steeper terrain, but not so efficient all for glacial travel. Actually, I prefer a 75cm axe for steeper terrain, and an 80cm for glacial/snow slope travel.

Piolets, or Mountain Axes usually are offered in size increments of 5cm, starting with 60-65cm, up to 80-85cm. There are not usually sizes available longer than 85cm, or you get into a category simular to a staff or walking stick, called Alpenstocks. Also, anything 60cm and shorter is completely in the Technical/Alpine Axe category, unless you are aroun 5'3" or so in height. Climbers that are 5'9"+, and use 60cm piolets are likely specifically using the axe for steep glacial ice that doesn't quite call for front pointing or the need to swing two tools. There are some random starting points from different brands, such as 63cm, 68cm, 74cm, etc.

There is a "modern" movement that is all about "shorter mountain axes"; but the reality is, it's still about your height/reach, and the terrain you will mostly be negotiating. Climbers that are all about the shorter axes, likely have several lengthed axes in their gear closet (selecting a specific lengthed axe off the shelf for a particular endeavor), or they just don't place the axe in their hand at all on low angle terrain (perhaps use poles), thus utilizing the axe only in those instances where they are up on steeper slopes. However, many climbers want one mountain axe to serve at some level of efficiency, the low angle and higher angle slopes, and have two technical/Alpine axes for any high angle/vertical terrain.

Not all axe manufacturers offer the full range of sizing in a Mountain Axe. If choosing an axe greater in length than 70cm, your brand choices narrow. Select manufacturers offer a 80cm or greater length in a general mountaineering axe. One manufacturer that serves the full range of longer lengths is SMC, namely the light weight SMC Capra (up to 80cm), or the general grade workhorse SMC Shuksan(up to 90cm). If you need em, we can get em.

In mountaineering, an axe that is too short (unless in climbing terrain that requires the two tool technique) is not only limiting, but may basically be worthless. But, at the same time, axes longer in length than 70-75cm do not perform as well in steeper terrain, where you are starting to need to front point or French technique, use on hands to facilitate a move, or are approaching the need to have two technical oriented Alpine tools. Also, longer tools typically do not perform as well in the self-arrest position (as the spike may hang up easier, or the distance from your top hand position to your other hand in the leash creates a less controlable position). If choosing an axe longer than 75cm, your terrain should mostly be limited to low angle slopes and glacial travel.

TESTING YOUR AXE LENGTH ON A STAIR CASE (in the case of use on steeper terrain): Once you narrow down your size range, and If you know that most of your climbs will involve steeper angled slopes, but yet not require the use of the dual tool technique, you may want to experiment with different length axes by observing your movement while climbing up and down a staircase. When you place the axe on the step in front of you, and your hand comes up to waste level or above, that size axe will likely be too long for that angle of slope that the stairs represent. In this case, your leverage on the axe will be less stable, and efficient, and the self-arrest position with that length axe could be less effective.

Just know that once you lock on a good size for steeper terrain, the axe just wont be as ideal for the lower slopes, which is just fine. If you are climbing steeper slopes, that is where you need the axe to perform, and when you are on the lower angle ones, you will just have the axe in hand (and not connecting with the snow at all) in case of the need for arrest when your partner plumets into a crevasse.

It is common for a mountaineer/alpinist to carry (2) two 50-55cm technical Alpine axes for the steep/technical elements of the climb, and also have a longer single axe (piolet) for the gentle slopes and navigating glaciers and crevasse fields.

Ideas for insulating the top of your ice, for colder mountains.

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4) About Crampons

There are four classifications of crampon types, and within each type there are usually a few options for binding attachments, and or a choice of a rigid body or a flexible body.

The major distinction between a crampon that is best suited for Mountaineering, and a crampon that is best suited for vertical or near verticle single or mulit-pitch water ice (ice falls, waterfalls), is the design of the front points. Mountaineering crampons, whether for low angle glacial travel, or steeper terrain including alpine ice, couliors, or steep slopes, will generally have fixed dual-front points that have a wide flairing point design. This design allows for more surface area to come into contact with the snow or ice, thus providing security even on softer surfaces.

A more technical crampon that is best suited for steep water ice, such as when climbing ice falls, the front points are very agressive, generally in a dual front point that has an option to be converted to a mono-point, will have front points that are narrower in profile with very little flair from the tip to the body. Because this type of terriain requires mostly a front point technique, there are subpoints behind the front points to aid in stability against the ice once you are in the correct position of having your heels lower than your toes. The sub points contact the ice when in the correct position.

Rigid versus Flexible
A Rigid bodied crampon is primarily designed to be used with plastic double boots, including AT boots, that usually do not have much "rocker" in the sole. A leather boot, whether a softer design or a more rigid design tend to have "rocker" built into the sole, and thus become "flatened" when affixed onto a rigid body crampon. A Flexible bodied crampon allows the crampon to take the shape of the "rocker" in the boot sole, instead of the other way around.

That said, you can still use a flexible crampon on a plastic boot, and a rigid crampon on a leather boot. There is something to be said for the efficiency of owning one set of crampons that will work fine for both your plastic and leather boots.

One additional difference is quick adjustability in the field. If switching from leathers to your plastics, most likely you will have to adjust your crampon slightely to fit the boots. Or, after a pitch of climbing you notice one crampon or both is fitting too loosely on your boot. Most flexible bodied crampons can adjust in length in a matter of seconds, without any tools. Most rigid crampons will take much longer to adjust, and require a wrench and allen/hex tool. You should always have with you, any necessary tools to adjust your crampons in the field.

Binding Types (to come)
Bail

No-Bail

What is Mixed Climbing?
Mixed climbing involves moving from rock to ice, or visa versa, generally encountering a "mix" of rock and ice up a route, where it is not efficient to remove crampons or discontinue using your ice tools. Some mixed climbs may not have any ice on them at all, usually a short one pitch climb performed soley with crampons and ice tools for a different challenge, and perhaps for honing skills for more demanding mixed scenarios in the backcountry.

Why use a Mono Point?
Mono points are for vertical or very steep ice, or mixed climbing, and are particularly useful when the ice has complex features such as chandeliers or runnels that make it difficult for dual points to contact the ice at the same time. A mono point allows some movement of the crampon laterally, thus your legs/knees can adjust to align your body a certain way for the next move, without the point slipping on the ice. In this situation, a dual point would lever out of the ice when the leg/knee is rotated from side to side. Mono points thrive in very technically difficult/delicate climbing situations.

GENERAL CLASSIFICATIONS
Glacial Travel
Low angle usage on hard snow or glacial ice on non-technical terrain. Crampon usually has 10 points, non-agressive. Not a crapon for Front Point Technique.

Technical Alpine
A more versatile crampon, with a more agressive configuration of points, usually consisting of 12 points. Functions well for glacial travel on both low anble and steeper angles, couloirs, and steep angled alpine ice. Designed to function with Front Point Technique with the presence of a series sub-points behind the front points. Sometimes available in a rigid or flexible body design.

Technical
Crampon designed primarily for Front Point Technique, very agressive point configurations, and usualy with 12-14 points. Functions well on very steep to verticle water ice/ice falls, and built with the option to convert from a dual-front point to a mono-point. These versions often come in two types, a rigid or flexible body design. Also a good design for some mixed climbing.

Mixed
Very specialized, simular to a Technical crampon such as described above, but may have a "fixed" mono-point instead of a convertable option. Also, most of these crampon types may also have a heel point (for heel hooking), and may or may not be permanently affixed to a lightweight boot.

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5)Tipping your Guide

Because professional mountain guiding is part of the service industry, it is customary, but not always expected, that a guide receives a gratuity from the client. In planning to tip your guide, be prepared to present the gratuity in cash, or by personal check, directly to your guide, following your outing. Guides are paid for their services via thier outing fees, and although gratuities do make up portion of a guide's personal income, they are not required, nor expected, as a line item on the outing fees, such as with servers in a restaurant. While tips do make up a certain percentage of a guide's income, your generosity in offering a gratuity is not processed through the Guiding Agency, as an optional addition to your fees for your guiding outing (similar to paying your tab at a restaurant); Always tip your guide in cash.

When offering a tip to your mountain guide, there are no set industry standards or expectations from your guide, as far as a percentage of your guided outing fees, the gratuity amount is up to you. Consider using the table below as a helpful general guideline:

1-Day Outing: $50-$100 cash gratuity
2-Day Outing (overnight):
$75-150 cash gratuity
3-Days or More: $50-100 per day cash gratuity

Inviting your Guide to Dinner & Drinks following your outing:
It is also customary or a common gesture of appreciation, in addition to , and not in lieu of your cash gratuity, to pick up the tab on a celebratory dinner or celebratory drinks following your outing, and presenting a gratuity to your guide at the restaurant/bar before parting ways until the next trip together. Consider this gesture of appreciation as an addition of your cash gratuity. If in a group, split the cost of your guides meal and drinks, and perhaps organize a presentation of the gratuity as a group, with each client taking a part in donating their own personal contribution amount in the gratuity (each client should not be expected to give an equal amount in gratuity, except to share in the cost of the Guide or Guides dinner and drinks).

Other items to keep in mind when considering a Tip for your guide
Gratuities are not required, though they customary, and are an excellent way to show appreciation to your guide, if you had a positive experience.
The amount of gratuity depends on your level of satisfaction with your guide(s) and the trip.
There are no set standards or percentages ( the above table represents actual ranges)
When planning to tip your guide, be prepared to give a cash gratuity. Sometimes this means having the cash with you on the outing, as upon your return to the trailhead, or Guide Facility, you may not be able to access an ATM, bank, or get to your pocket book at a hotel or other accomodation, before you part from your guide. Have your tip for your guide with you on the climb.
Keep in mind that iintending to include your guiide's tip on your outing bill will usually not be a possible transaction for your guiding company to accomodate because of basic accounting iand payroll issues. Always plan to have cash to tip your guide or guides.
If in a group setting, with multiple guides, consider selecting a leader among the clients to organize a donation pool for the gratuity to be split between the guides. Choose an appropriate time to present the gratuity, making sure all the guides are present, and that they know the gratuity is to be shared equally among them. Consider dividing the cash equally and present to each guide their tip at the same time, if possible.
When climbing with a mountain guide you have had numberous outings with, perhaps working on many different objectives over the years, your personal relationship with your guide is such on a different level, that your gratuity not always be consistanty the same. Your gratuity may vary from trip to trip, and may include as a combination or supplement to your normal cash gratuity, a useful and applicable gift, such as known needed equipmtent, a bottle of your guide's favorite fine spirits, or other items that you have learned to be personal and appropriate for the guide you have come to know over the years.

6a) A Climber's Prayer

by Lance Johnson

The Mountains
Dear God, you have created us, and all that we have around us; the soil, sky, sun, moon, seasons, weather, water, wind and rock. Lord, we marvel at this world made in such perfection. Thank you for these beautiful mountains, the rock, the crisp clean air, the many states of water; clouds, rain, snow, ice, lakes, and streams. Thank you for the beauty we see, the beauty we touch, reminding us of you.

Thank you for such an amazing playground, so abundant, so perfect, beautifully rugged and so provisional to so many different needs. As we venture out on our climb today, be with us in our diligence to intentionally respect and preserve what you have created, leaving it as we have found it, minimizing the impact, as we climb and descend, caring for it as we can along the way, so that we and others on a future day can experience this awesome place, perhaps in a better condition than we found it.

Safety
Please keep us, sustain us, and protect us in any harsh weather we may encounter, and also from natural and the humanly inherent hazards of our sport. Help us endure the challenges before us, reach our objectives, and keep us within a margin of safety within our collective and individual physical, technical and mental capabilities.

Decision Making
Help us we keep our objective today in the right perspective, within reasonable and calculated risk. On our climb, please preserve our lives, our health, and the unity of our relationship as climbing partners. Provide us wisdom, and courage in our communication, respecting and honoring each other’s input in weighing risks, and working through decisions to go on, go up, go down, stay put, or go home.

Comradery
Thank you for the special bond of our climbing partnership. May our bond as friends and climbing partners strengthen, as well as our appreciation for each other, and our individually unique gifts of athletic ability, technique, mountain sense, decision making, sense of humor and other personality traits. Help us recognize, value, and rely on each other’s strengths to endure the challenges of our objective, and deliver our team safely back to our families.

Family
Please be with our loved ones at home. In our absence, keep them safe and free of worry. Help us capture the full joy of our experience with renewed minds, so that upon our return, we can also share our freshened perspective with the ones we love, and better nurture our relationships. With this mountain experience, please clear our minds, afford us better perspective, rejuvenating our awareness and sense of purpose in our most important priorities; first in our relationship with you our God, and secondly with our families.

Privilege
Thank you for affording us our present health, physical strength, endurance, and abilities. Thank you for the opportunity to get out and move among your awesome creation, and to experience your gift of this perfect and abundant physical world you made us all stewards of. Renew us spiritually in this immersion in this isolated, calm, natural perfection, and provision of your creation, away from our routine environments and schedules.

In Jesus’ name we pray, Amen.
_____________________________________

If you would like to print out a copy of the above prayer to keep in your pack. Click Below.

If you have an upcoming climb/expedition, and would like additional support in prayer, submit your prayer request here. Prayer requests for personal needs also welcome.

6a) Blessing For Climbers and Their Equipment

(as found in the Teton Chapel)

Teton Chapel

Bless, we beseech Thee, O Lord, these ropes, ice axes, pitons and other instruments; so those who will use them on the rough cliffs of the mountain in ice, snow and storms may be preserved from any fall or danger, may successfully reach the summit and safely return to their own, through Jesus Christ, Our Lord.

Protect, O Lord, through the intercession of those blessed Bernard, whom Thou hast given as a patron to those who dwell and travel in the Alps, these servants of Thine; and grant that as they ascend these heights they may be made strong to reach the mountain which is Christ, through the same Christ, O Lord. Amen

7) Mountain Vernacular

More complete content coming soon. If you have any applicable terminology or slang to share, let us know via email.

Alpenland: The name given by the Germans to describe the part of Europe surrounding the Alps: 22.000 square kilometres with a population of 18 million. The area covers about 2% of the whole of Europe and contains territory belonging to seven different countries: Austria 28%, Italy 26%, France 25%, Switzerland 13%, Germany 3%, Slovenia 3%, and Lichtenstein 2%. There are 82 mountains higher than 4000 metres.

Piolet: the original word for "mountain axe".

Direttissima: an Italian word in mountaineering for the most direct route to the summit.

Goulette: a natural mountain drainage, sometimes steep, and filled with snow or ice.

Screaming Barfies: when circulation finally gets back into your hands, this is the pins and needles feeling as your hands warm up from being numb, usually while ice climbing.

Dinner Plating: A layer of thin ice that shatters with each swing of the ice axe, as if you were swinging your axe into a dinner plate. Usually happens with water ice, in very cold temperatures.

Col: a dip in the ridge between two peaks (saddle, beaulach, bwlch)

Cirque: a depression with slopes and peaks on three or more sides, usually with a small mountain lake (tarn) nested at the base. (Cwm, Corrie, Coire )

Cairn-stacks of rocks piled to signify a trail or high point, often constructed in intervals to show the way through a boulder field or scree field.

Abseil: descending a rope (rappel)

Bollard: a large rock or rock formation, or formation cut from ice or hard snow, used as an abseil anchor.

Choss: area of a climb with very loose, deteriated rock

Tarn-a small mountain lake, usually at the base of a cirque

Abelakov Thread: Also known as a V-Thread, an abseil anchoring technique used in hard alpine ice, or water ice

Bergschrund: a gap, separation or crevasse in the glacier between the main glacier and the steep slopes above

Scree Slope: a very loose mountain slope, usually under a rock band, primarily consisting of very small pieces of broken rock that has fallen from above. Usually this is unstable, and slides when walked on.

Talus: collection of larger rocks or boulders, usually under a rock band, that normal does not slide when walked on.

Arete: a thin ridge or defined line on a face where the rock off slopes steeply on both sides. On a face, an Arete may look like a reverse open book or dihedral.

Sharp End: The end of the rope that is tied to the “leaders harness” is referred to as the “Sharp End”, due to the responsibilities the leader has of taking the rope up the route, realizing route finding, protecting, exposure to a consequential fall, and anchoring above for a belay.

Dihedral: the inside line (Y-Axis, up and down) or area where two opposing rock faces meet at more than a 90 degree angle (diedre, open book). The opposite of which would be referred to as an arête or ridge.
Dry-Tooling: Using axes and/or crampons to secure holds on rock. Often also referred to as “mixed”

Mixed: route that features a combination of rock and ice.

Apron: the bottom section of a coulior that is wider and less steep, rising up from the base. The apron is usually scree.

Alpine Start: setting out at “o-dark-hundred” from camp via headlamp, long before sun-up to gain position or summit and return before the sun begins to heat up the slopes and cause rock fall, avalanches or snow slog. Sometimes Alpine Starts are as early as just after midnight. Has to do with safety, and time.

Buttress: a jetting formation of rock that is flanked on both side by gullies or couloirs.

Couloir: a steep chute or gully running down from a Col to the base, usually filled with snow or ice.

Bowling Alley: a condition in which sun hit is dislodging rocks that have been frozen in position, while ascending a coulior.

Fourteener: A peak with an elevation above 14,000ft above sea level.

Eight-Thousander: A peak with an elevation above 8000 meters above sea level.

High Altitude: general term for peaks exceeding 15,000ft above sea level

Exposure: section of a climb where there is either a substantial risk of hazards above, a feeling of nothing but air between you and the ground, or a position on a climb is where the result of an un-roped fall would be severe or result in death.

Gendarme: jetting rock towers or pinnacles along a rock ridge.

Flute: Y axix channels (runnels) of rock or ice

Munter Hitch: Also known as an Italian Hitch or Friction Hitch, a hitch usually used on a HMS carabiner (pear shapped) that allows a belay or lowering without a mechanized or specific device for belaying.

Névé: Often refered to as “corn snow”, a granulated snow layer, usually found in spring or summer snow conditions, caused by an continuous freeze-thaw cycle.

Rime: very thin layer of ice and snow formed on rock or soil, usually caused by very high humidity, hovering clouds or mist (dew), or a light freezing rain.

Verglas: Vaneer of ice on the rock after storms.

Nunatak: formation of rock that protrudes through a glacial field or snow/ice filled coulior.

Serac: a large hanging section of ice above a route, or high on a mountain that looms as a major objective hazard. A falling serac usually becomes a trigger for excessive rock fall or a major avalanche in the high mountains.

Föhn Wind: is a type of dry down-slope wind that occurs in the lee (downwind side) of a mountain range
Simulclimbing

Lee Side: downwind side of a mountain range.

HMS Carabiner: This technique can be used with a special "pear-shaped" HMS locking carabiner, or any locking carabiner enough to take two turns of the rope. The 'Munter hitch' is named after a Swiss mountain guide, Werner Munter, who popularised its use in mountaineering. Halbmastwurfsicherung, meaning 'half clove hitch belay'.

Short fixing:

Directional: Any auxiliary anchor point used to position the rope in the strongest possible location

Bight: Any bend in the rope that does not cross itself; used in many knots and to thread belay rappel devices

Spur: A rock or snow rib on a mountain; a lateral ridge

Spindrift: Accumlated snow from winds.

Runnel: (rivulet, brook) A groove created by a fallen serac in the glacer below. Often makes glacial navigating cumbersome

Death Cookies: huge avalanche or point release of debris, huge chunks of snow or Ice

Blue Room: where you are if you fall in a crevasse

White Room: either skiing bottomless powder shooting over your head all day, or where you are in an avalanche.

Blue Bird: nothing but blue skies

Gray Bird: skies are gray and overcast all day

Coral Reef: Skiing in the backcountry on frozen bullet proof chop from hell

Ball Bearings: Granulated granite layer on sloppy paths or steppy/bouldery trails, slippery and hazardous when traveling as the tiny rocks act like ball bearings under your feet.

Krummholz: in subarctic and subalpine environments, trees and other vegetation become twisted, deformed and stunted in the harsh climate. Often referred to as the Krummholz zone.

Superfluous Carabiner Guy: dude dangling a random carabiner from a day pack, book pack, fanny pack, or belt loop. Not a climber.

8) Common Equipment Difficulty or Failure above 15,000ft

TOPICS
Compressed Fuels (Canister)
Stove Bases
Water Bladders
Water Bottles
Ground Pads/Mattresses
Tent Stakes
Cooking Pots
Sunglasses
Sun Protection

Canister (Compressed Gas) Fuel Stoves
There are so many tried and true stove systems out there, but in Winter, or climbs in any season that will experience colder temperatures, such as just about any mountain at elevations above 15,000, stoves that require compressed gas (butane/isobutane/propane mixes and propane) begin to show increasing signs of less effeciency, and beginnings of a total failure to perform. Cold causes less pressure inside the canister, causing less ability for the fuel to vaporize. Its the cold, not the altitude that causes canister fuels to rapidly decrease in performance (Altitude can actually aid in the vaporizing of the fuels, but the cold reverses this big time). You can utilize methods to warm the canisters, such as sleeping with them in your sleeping bage, or using more complex ve systems to warm the canister, thus increasing the pressure/vaporization, or you can just elect to use a different stove system for these types of outings. There are however some postive things about Compressed Gas stoves, such as they are generally lightweight, more compact, quick to set up, and don't require primming. Canister Fuel Stoves can be a good choice for warmer outings, thus at lower elevations, however there are a number of disadvantages. Calculating the correct amount of fuel canisters to pack is sometimes dificult, an increased cost for the fuel canisters, an occassional challenge in sourcing the right canisters for your stove, and the fact that the canisters are not recyclable (not refillable, only recyclable as metal if empty and punctured) are all issues to consider.

As pure Butane canister fuels do not work below 32F, most canister fuels contain a mix of propane and isobutane or n-butane boost the performance in colder temperatures. An Isobutane canister fuel can work at temperatures above 25F, whereas pure propane will work to approximately zero degrees F (however propane requires a heavier gauge container, thus too heavy for use in backpacking/alpinism. However, canister fuels that contain a blend of propane and isobutane or n-butane to not perform as well while burning the final third of the fuel left in the canister. This is because the propane in the mix seems to burn off first, reducing the pressure in the canister and the performance burning element that propane provides. The best mixes for colder temperatures will contain little or no n-butane, and a high percentage of propane to isobutane. Examples of these fuels are: Jet Boil JetPower (25% Propane, 75% Isobutane), MSR IsoPro (20% propane, 80% Isobutane), and Snow Peak GigaPower (15% Propane, 85% Isobutane),

If traveling outside the US with your canister fuel stove system, likely your Butane or Butane-blended fuel canisters use a EN417 "Lindal Valve" (threaded or un-threaded), and you can use many different brands of compressed canister fuels interchangeably with your stove. This type of valve is an international adopted standard, and nearly exlusively manufactured by the German company, Lindal Group. The EN417 (Conseil Européen pour la Normalisation) EN417 is a standard mostly having to do the the material of the canister, but also the valve. So in theory, any brand of canister fuel with this valve will work, but the stoves that work with this valve have varying material integrity and consistency of the threads to fit the Lindal valve, thus some variances in interchangeability.. However, it is highly recommended that you only use fuels specified by your stove manufacturer, which is usually a fuel canister that they produce. If South American, Asian, and European countries, canister fuel is readily available, but do your research beforehand, to know what valve your stove requires, and what brands you might look for. Multi-Fuel Stoves that utilize non-compressed gas (White Gas, Kerosene, Unleaded, Jet) are considered the best for international travel ( as well as cold temperature use, and at higher altitudes).

Some Brands of canister fuel that utilize the threaded type of EN417 Lindal Valve are: Primus PowerGas, Brunton Butane, Snow Peak GigaPower, Jetboil JetPower, and MSR IsoPro. NOTE: Camping Gaz canister fuel uses a "non-threaded" Lindal Valve, and either requires an adapter to use this canister if you are not using a Camping Gaz stove.

If traveling planning to travel on airplanes with your stove (canister or non-canister), see the information at the very top of this page for helful tips on successfully preparing your stove for travel, and meeting the requirements of Homeland Security. Click Here.

WARNING: It is not recommended to use a wrap around windscreen when using canister stove. The screen could cause the canister to overheat and explode, resulting in serious injury and burns.

White Gas Stoves are the absolute best stove systems to use in cold and at higher altitudes. They are the most efficient in these environments and burn cleaner. Many models, such as those listed below, will also burn Kerosene or Unleaded Gas, with much of same efficiency and effectiveness. In other countries outside the US, it sometimes is easier to find and purchase Kerosene or Unleaded Gas, for your non-compressed multi-fuel stove. In some South American countries, namely Peru and Argentina, Bencina Blanco (White Gas) is available either in sporting goods/climbing stores, or a Ferreteria (hardware stores).

Three stove models that we offer on this site that fit the bill for extreme conditions, and utilize either white gas, and/or the versatility of running on multiple types of non-compressed fuels (Kerosene, Unleaded Automotive Gas, Jet Fuel) are:

MSR Whisperlite Internationale (general purpose, good simmer capability)

MSR XGK-EX (expedition grade, big BTU output)

PRIMUS Omni-Fuel (general purpose to expeditions, big BTU output, and can simmer)

To stay focused on Alpinism, we are moving out most of our stove models that utilize canister fuels. Right now we have entire stock of Jetboil stoves at closeout prices right now, such as the Jetboil Helios Stove System, and Helios Guide Stove System. These stoves are good gear, very stable, good design, and perform well for those warmer outings. Click Here to take advantage!

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Stove Bases for Snow/Glacier Camps
Stoves require an insulating base for efficiency and stability when using ontop of snow/glaciers/ice. The best system would be a 10"x10" piece of 3/4" plywood, but you are not going to carry that. So, what to do? You can try the stove bases made by some of the stove manufacturers, such as as the Trillium Stove Base by MSR, but most if not all of these types of stove bases do not adequately insulate themselves from the snow/ice, and because they both reflect and retain some heat, the base will eventually sink into the snow, causing the stove to lean, and eventually spill the contents of your pot. As bases like these sink into the snow, they will eventually freeze in place, and you may discover yet another use for your ice axe. After all that, the base will likely be bent. I personally have experimented with many types of plastics, and have consulted a few materials engineers, but have yet to find a type of plastic that does not either warp, depress under weight of a typical pot of water, or crack due to the temperature swings. You can mess around with homemade remedies, such as wood and some plastics, or you can look into our offering of RDM Stove Bases.

The best solution we have found is the RDM Stove Base. There are two models offered, a 9" and a 12" version, and a Windscreen that is designed for usage with the 12" version. Pictured above at left is the 9" model, excellent for Alpine outings with 2-4 climbers. The version pictured above at centeris the 12" Expedition version, and allthough not recommended by RDM, and some stove manufacturers, you can operate up to three stoves on this platform, to heat a gigantic pot of water for your team. One of the safety precautions/concerns of grouping two or more stoves under a single pot has to do with the pots ability to tolerate such increased heat, and the approximity of such increased heat to the fuel hoses/pumps mechanisms of the stoves themselves. With consideration of these safety precautions, and with the necessary mitigation, the 12" Expedition Platform can be used in this fashion for larger teams. The Windscreen is designed to be used with the 12" Platform. In the case of the 9" Platform, you can use the windscreen that came with your stove.
The RDM uses a special grippy (high friction surface built in, so as to grip the snow underneath) laminated wood base, with a rivited-on sheet of aluminum for heat deflection. These are light, support the weight, and do not warp or crack. They also come with an optional pot support in each model, providing your pot with more stability, and your stove will fit underneath it. These models also have a pre-drilled hole in which a thin traditional tent stake can be used to further hold the stove base in place on the snow/ice (stake not included).

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Water Bladders
Basically, in freezing temperatures, bladders are a hassle. Tubes freeze, tubes get ice crystals build up inside, and/or the entire contents of the bladder can freeze. Packs have great sleeves to house the bladders, but most packs also have elaborate padding for your back, and in some cases, systems to allow air flow between your back and the pack. What does all that mean? Likely the same temperature inside your pack is the same temperature as outside your pack. Will enough heat from your back actually transfer through your clothing, and through the padding and other materials on your pack....to keep your bladder from freezing? Not so much. The solution? Use water bottles, but the right ones (more on that below). However, there is a proven technique in utilizing a bladder hydration system. You can manipulate/customize your favorite brand of winter insulated bladder harnesses/insulated hose system, to wear the unit on the front of your body, on top of your first layer of clothing. This system has been utilized on Everest and other big peaks with success. Click here for more details on this dealio.

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Water Bottles
In the middle of the Summer, depending on where you are in the world, water freezes. At elevations above 15,000ft, in any season, anywhere in the world, water can freeze. Water bottles certainly will freeze, just as easily as a bladder will. And, depending on the conditions, an insulator does not guarantee the bottle won't freeze, but they help retard the process, especially when the bottles filled with warm water, and placed in the insulator before starting up the route. It should probably be mentioned right here that you do not take metal, or narrow mouthed bottles into the backcountry if there is risk of your water freezing. There is a place for metal bottles, and and/or narrow mouthed bottles, usually on a day hike in the summer, on the soccer field, or in your book pack. Nuff said.

So, in Winter, and/or elevations approaching or above 15,000ft, you definately need an insulator (we recommend the 40 Below version, or the Granite Gear version), but lets talk about the integrity of your bottle? Most bottle manufacturers produce perfectly capable bottles, that wont crack when they freeze, but what about the lid? Take any ordinary bottle, such as your Everyday Nalgene, or Classic Nalgene bottle, and look at the material of the lid compared with the body. Now look at the thread pattern. Most lids are made from a different material that will crack in cold temps, and the threads are spaced so narrow that the lid will tend to freeze shut. Also, lids like these can be difficult to grip to get a good powerful twist to open it. When the threads are spaced narrow, it is difficult for the ice crystals to clear when opening a frozen shut bottle. Hunersdorff bottles are designed for extreme cold, and are the choice of many high altitude expedition guiding companies. On the Hunersdorff bottles, the lids are the same durable material as the body. The theads on the cap are widely spaced and clear ice crystal build-up properly, and the outer contours of the lid are designed to get a good grip, even with your mitts on.

Hunersdorff Bottles	40-Below Insulators (neoprene)	Granite Gear Aquatherm (closed cell foam)

The Hunersdorff bottles are hard to find, buy them when you can (we have them of course), and they don't crack in extreme cold, or hot temps. Made in Germany, offered on this site in two sizes, 1L and 1.5Liter.

ABOUT THE BOTTLE INSULATORS: The 40-Below Insulators are made with Neoprene, and are offered in two sizes, fitting the 1L or 1.5L Hunnersdorff (respectively). With the velcro attachment, you can secure to a pack strap or narrower pack belt (won't work with all pack belts). Depending on your pack design, you can secure this insulator by looping the velcro around the compression strap that runs along your pack's waste belt. The 1L 40-Below Insulator will also fit other common 32oz bottles, such as your standard Nalgene. We also offer the Nalgene wide-mouthed bottles, as they are very useful for alpine endeavors that don't encounter prolonged freezing temperatures. The Granite Gear Aquatherm will fit the Naglene 32oz bottles, but not either size of the Hunersdorff bottles. The Granite Gear Aquatherm insulator is made form 1/2" closed cell foam with a nylon outer. Equipped with a daisy chain, you can secure to pack straps, or clip anywhere, such as one of the compression straps along your pack's waste belt.

The Mil-Spec Insulated Water Bottle Carrier is another option we offer, equipped with 1/2" Open Cell Foam, and it fits both the standard Nalgene 32oz bottle, or the 1L Hunersdorff bottle. The unique feature, besides open cell foam, is the attachment system. This insulated carrier utilizes a military style quick stick weave with velcro, and a velcro fold over flap. This secures firmly the carrier to any 1" compression strap on your pack, or the stabilazation strap on most pack's waiste belt. The bottle carrier will secure in place, and not slip when removing a bottle, or slip of the end of your waist belt when you unbuckle to remove your pack. This one is worth the extra money, just because of the attachment system, and it insulates your water. See image below.

Mil-Spec Insulated Water Bottle Carrier--Fits both a standard Nalgene, and a Hunersdorff 1L.

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Ground Pads/Mattresses
A good outing in the rugged mountains is not always what you might refer to as comfortable, at least in the sense of having "all the comforts of home". The ever popular "air" mattresses, that self-inflate because of a combination of atmospheric pressure and expanding open-cell foam, are very nice to use, very insulative, and comfortable. These systems still require some supplemental inflation by way of your breaths into the valve. Unfortunately, at higher elevations and colder temperatures, these consist of materials that can puncture (you need to carry a repair kit), valves that can fail, and the present element of decreased atmospheric pressure. At most elevations and especially at higher elevations you need to completely supplement the mattress' pressure by blowing into the valve, thus introducing moisture from your breath into the mattress channels. This moisture becomes problematic for subsequent inflations/deflations, in colder temps, and higher elevations. The mattresses can become even heavier, bulkier, and lose their major advantage, their insulative qualities. Some mattresses utilize a separate pump to mitigate the problem with adding moisture into the system with your breath, but that requires an extra tool to bring that can manlfunction, and you are still dealing with potential valve failure/malfunction or punctures to the mattress (requiring a patch kit to be carried).

The best failsafe system is a closed-cell foam mattress. These systems are recommended for just about any cold weather venture, especially in higher elevations. They can be a bit more bulky than a inflatable mattress, but they are lighter, they don't require a stuff sack, and they do not fail. Many high altitude guide services suggest using two mattresses of varying thicknesses. We recommend the following two product choices, or a combination of the two, both offered in two different lengths/widths:
Ridgerest Solar by Thermarest
Z-Lite by Thermarest

If your pack may require straps to secure your mattress, consider one of the following:
Accessory Straps by Sea to Summit, 40"
Accessory Straps by Sea to Summit, 40" with Hook Release buckle

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Tent Stakes on Glacial Ice
This is a sensitive subject for us at Bradley Alpinist. We are always searching for additional solutions to secure tents at high elevations. As of late, we have been having ocassional conversations with SMC, sharing ideas about building a tent stake that will work well on glacial ice and hard snow conditions. We sent them a sample design a while back, they had excellent ideas to add, and I think they are pretty close to coming out with the "Alpinist" tent stake soon.

Until then, here is what we do know. Most traditional tent stakes don't work well on snow, and almost all definately will not work on glacial ice. There are some solid methods, but they have their challenges. 1) You can cut down your typical 24" snow pickets to about 12", and they work bomber. We used this method on Denali. The draw back is the bulk and weight, and the cutting and modifying of perfectly good snow anchors. 2) You can bury the soft anchors, "parachute style", "mesh bags, or stuff sack-like" systems, and they work well...almost too good, but one big flaw is that they are pretty close to a one use system, as at some point you will destroy them in the removal process. I used a set at 20,000ft on Huascaran in Peru...one use. They were destroyed getting them out. However, these rock for use in morrains, and other rocky areas where you are setting up shelter. Its suggested you use old mesh or nylon stuff sacks to experiment, rather than buying the special "soft tent anchors".

Snow Pickets "halved"	Thread a plastic golf ball	Soft Stake (bags, or parachute style)

The soft style achors are a pretty good solution in soft snow, or normal winter conditions at lower altitudes. One other option is threading a bright colored plastic golf ball with cord, and placing in a small hole in the snow, then pack snow around it. These are much more indestructable than the "soft anchors", and grip the packed snow very well. Depending on the "grade" of plastic, this golf ball system could have some longevity on glacial ice surfaces.

One of the better stake designs we have found so far is pictured below, but are no longer available. We are researching a possibility to have them made. More on that in the future. Here is a picture of what they looked like (below) from the Adventure 16 Catalog, and its called the Sand/Snow Stake. These supposedly were manufactured in Barre, Vermont, by C. A. Hill & Associates, and sold to Adventure 16 for distribution. They were phased out around 2005, evidentally the company closed. If you can help with finding this source, we are interested in buying them again (or the mold) to offer our customers. They are burley, and can be driven over and over again, nearly as durable as a snow picket. Good surface areas for leverage in the snow/ice, and easy in and out.
Sand and Snow Stake, no longer made....but we are searching for a contact for the mold.

However, RDM (the maker of the best stove bases in the world) has a beautiful tent stake for glacial (alpine) ice, and at the proper length. Check out the RDM Expedition Tent Stake. This is currently the single best solution we have sourced for harder snow surfaces (such as glacial ice).
RDM Expedition Tent Stake

Also, pictured below is our latest excellent find, a very well engineered product by Toughstake. We carry the "medium 13.5 inch verison in this suberb design for snow, and softer glacial ice (lower altitudes). Works and acts like a deadman, with the attachment point being positioned under the surface, near the base of the anchor. Boasts about 10x the holding power of ordinary tent stakes. For "hard" glacial ice, this design is a bit limiting, unless you take your snow saw and cut a needed thin trench from the bottom positon of the anchor, to route the cable up through the alpine ice (given you can drive the anchor into the alpine ice).

Toughstake in medium (13.5")

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Cooking Pots
If your pot is too narrow, it can tip. If your pot doesn't have a spout, or indention for pouring, you could lose valuable water if some spills while pouring...and you could get liquid on your hand/glove. If you pot is too small, you are waisting efficiencies in melting snow, refilling water bottles/bladders, and providing the needed water for meals and drinks.

For a team of two to three climbers, we recommend strong consideration of a 2L-2.5L pot, one that is wider and not so tall, and one that has a spout or pouring indention. In one round of snow melting, you can fill two bottles and have enough left over for a half cup each round of something hot to drink.

Sunglasses
...content coming soon

Sun Protection
...content coming soon

9) Ideas for Carrying Ice Screws

The last thing you want is to have your screws naked. Did I say that right? Meaning, to remain sharp, the teeth and the ribs need protection from rubbing on each other. Covering your screws individually will alsoprotect your pack and clothing inside your pack from getting shredded. The little black soft plastic tips that come with your screws are a pain, an impractable in the field. Most "tool bags" or ice screw carrying cases still leave the threads(ribs) of your screws exposed to rubbing on each other.

Here is the first of several ideas. Introducing the Screw Flute, ideal for ice cragging, such as in the Ouray Ice Park. This is a bunch of cut down 1" PVC (not the Schedule 40 1" PVC, but the thinner version), gorilla glued together.

The two drilled holes toward the bottom of each tube help you see at a glance, which size screw is in that tube. Works for all three typical screw sizes by all the manufacturers. The attached cord is so you can hang this from something and sort what you want for your rack for your climb. Holds 13 screws. Painted like dynomite so you can see it in the snow.

Will have more pics for you later on this, but essentially, the tubes are cut to a length of 8.5". A 1" "Schedule 40 PVC will not work as the inner diameter is too narrow for the screws, it has to be the thinner walled 1" 200psi PVC tubing. It's so thin you can squeeze it with your fingers some. I also take a 8.5" long piece of 1.5" tubing for the center piece. One 1" tube will be glued inside of this 1.5" tube for the center section. Then, glue the PVC together in (4) clusters of three. Once done, glue section of three onto the center tube (1.5" tube) one at a time. For each subsequent cluster, space 1/8" to 1/4" apart and glue, one at a time, allowing each individual cluster to cure at a time. Think about drilling a hole and threading a cord through between two clusters, and through the center tube. Toward the top, about 1" down is a good position for the cordage.

This system is great for ice cragging, just pull it out of your pack, and rack. After climbing, re-slot into the Screw Flute as you un-rack. Take this out of your pack at the car/hotel/home, and they will drain and air dry.

You can also make clusters of three, and only pack what you need. Six screws, two individual clusters. Get some industrial strenth velcro, and install strips along the top, and use the opposite side for a strip to secure from one side, up over the top of the screws and secured down on the other side. This keeps the screws in the tubes nicely, for the pack. Paint them so you can see them when you lay the empty tube cluster in the snow (of if it rolls off your pack).

As another idea, Outdoor Research makes a nice Ice Screw holder called the Screw Wrap, but its super hard to get a screw down the cordura slots unless the screw has the soft plastic caps on them, which thier usage is problematic in the field as discussed above. Therefore, unless you are in your hotel room when you insert the screws in the sleeves ( likely with the caps on them), this system does not work well, although the screw case rolls up nicely (like a burrito)

BUT, you can take this screw case and cut the narrow walled PVC (described above) to 8.5", and work these (although tight) into the sleeves. Now your screws will rack efficiently. There are 10 sleeves, but only insert PVC into 9 of them. Then you can still roll the package up and buckle...but, with the PVC in the sleeve, you have to roll this in the opposite direction, and jimmy the strap around and buckle.

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10) Insulating the head of your Mountain Axe (Piolet)

Related Topics
____________
Creating Grip areas on your axe with Mastic Tape
Protecting the pick of your axe
Protecting your Snow Saw Blade for pack carry

For the ultra cold climbs, it is necessary that you insulate the top of the axe where your hand is placed in normal walking position. If not, the cold metal will suck the heat right out of your palm and fingers. This is a must for Denali, and other mountaineering endeavors in Alaska, Canada, Himalaya, South America, and even Rainier...where you are doing long sections of walking/climbing with your piolet in a "walking" position. See image in Step #13 below, as to how the insulation is under the hand and fingers in the walking position. Image #2 below shows the key coverage area.

In this demonstration, we are using ordinary plumbing insulation foam that you can find at any hardware store(but you can also use a strip cut from your closed cell foam sleeping pad), "Mastic" 2228 Moisture Sealing Professional Grade Electrical Tape by Scotch 3M, and a "road" bike (not mountain bike) innertube. You certainly don't need these exact materials to insulate your ice axe, but this is one method to give you the idea. The Mastic tape however, is at a minimum, the best wrap you can use for this. It is found in the electrical section of Home Depot or any good Hardware store. The box may not say "mastic" on it, but get help and be sure that the tape you are buying is a professional grade "mastic" tape, which is also described as "2228 Moisture Sealing Electical Tape (extra thick rubber), by Scotch/3M (bar code number 54007 50727). One 1" by 10ft roll is all you need, and it is expensive at about $8-$9 a roll. As a conveniance, we offer Mastic tape on this website, and we just add $2 to the normal retail cost, as we buy it from Home Depot ourselves. . If you buy the tape from us, and also need the other supplies for insulating your axe, just let us know in a notation on the order or by email, and we will also include the other materials shown below that are needed in this demonstration. Do not use ordinary electrical tape. If you want to go a cheaper route, Duct Tape is certainly a good substitute(but there in no grip quality), and you can stick on extra in case you need to peel some off for a repair of some sort.

Adding the foam gives the head of the axe a little extra surface area for your palm (more comfortable), and certainly provides much more protective insulation. What is important to note, is to not cover any "working" areas of the axe that would prevent proper function for pick penetration, self arrest, or using the adze to cut a step or platform. Do not cover/insulate outside of the "key area" shown in Step #2.

As another precaution, while installing these insulative materials, be very focused and careful working around the sharp adze and pick. One slip or jerk can result in a cut or a more serious bodily injury.

Steps #1-#5
Your materials are Mastic Electrical Tape (usually found at Home Depot or any good hardware store...accept no substitutes...this is the absolute best tape to use, also fantastic for wrapping key areas for grip on any ice axe shaft). Take plumbing insulation foam tubing, and an old road bike inner tube (or buy a cheap one from Walmart or any bike shop). Cut the plumbing insulation to a four inch section, then at about half the length (at 2"), cut out a 1" section of the tubbing's width, and take that cut the remaining 2" of the length. Cut the bike tube to 5 inches approximately. For step #5, with sissors, trim very slightely, a 1" slit on the innertube, from left to right, from the 1" mark to the 2.5" mark, approximately. When the innertube is placed onto the pick and adze, this slit allows an area to clear the shaft.

Steps #6 & 7
This tip is not shown here, but you might consider intalling a 1/2" wide strip of duct tape along the length of the coverage area on top of the head. This can give extra protection from the metal edge wearing through the foam insulation with prolonged usage. Pull the innertube over the pick first, inserting through the slit (at the end where the slit is closest to the end of the innertube), and pull on all the way to the shaft. To achieve the result in Step #7 ( getting the other end of the innertube over the adze), this will take some work, and be extra careful not only working with the sharp edges of the adze, but also avoided the sharp edges cutting the innertube as you stretch it.. When working the end around the adze to acheive the result in Step #7, you may end up cutting, or increasing the slit length in the innertube, start over with another section of innertube, until you can work this on, without increasing the slit length (1" from the end, and no more than 1.5" in slit lenth). I used a screwdriver to help stetch the innertube's end over the adze, and this helped avoid increasing the slit length due to being cut on the adze. Hopefully, you can end up with your innertube on the axe, as it is in the Step #7 image.

Steps #8 - #10
Having the innertube on the axe not only gives a little extra insulative quality, but is also serves as a way to hold the foam in place while tapping, and gives the whole thing a little extra integrity, in case the metal edges of the axe begins to wear through the foam after prolonged usage (as does the duct tape strip across the top, described in the paragraph above). In Step #8, you are working the foam in and underneath the innertube, the trimmed out end of the foam goes on toward the pick, with the wider section of foam ending up around the wide adze. Once on, trim some of the foam under the adze, so that when firmed up tight, there is no slop or overlap.

Steps #11 & 12
Here you are preparing the Mastic Tape. Read the instructions on the box before getting started...this is tricky tape. Once applied it is not really removable for re-working. It works best when stretched, so begin by stretching the end that will be laid down first. Start at the pick end of the head of the axe, moving toward the adze, which will result in having the overlaps of the tape going in the right direction for lasting durability. Overlap the tape at about a width of 1/2 the tape width. As you are working the tape toward the shaft, you will have to get creative on how you will make the wrapping cover the head that is directly over the end of the axe shaft. You will likely have to make multiple passes at different anglesfor adequate coverage. The image in Step #12 is the end result.

1) More on Mastic Tape
Mastic tape is also excellent to use on any ice axe shaft, either in the main grip area, or areas on the axe shaft that you might "choke" up on for certain moves / mantles, etc. See image below. Not only does it provide insulation from the cold metal shaft, but it's nice and grippy, like a baseball bat, golf club or tennis raquet handle.

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2) Axe Pick Protection

Also shown in the above image is the use of a cut piece of PVC (thin, 1" non-schedule 40). This is a somewhat primative form of pick protection for travel, but for some technical and alpine axes, the manufacturer produced protection pieces don't work well, and picks can chew through with light pressure, the little plastic protection tips often included with the purchase of the axes.

To make, buy a section of PVC from the hardware store, get specifically the thin walled type, which is NOT "schedule 40" PVC. Find 4" of small diameter bungie cord. Slide one end over the pick, and note where on the pick the PVC stops. Then determine that length, plus a 1/4", and cut. Dril a small whole in one end, about 1/2" in. Take some thin bungy cord, and cut and tie to a lenth that both allows you to extend over the adze or hammer, but that also still holds the PVC snug in place. You may have to double the bungie around the hammer to get the required snug fit.

3) Protecting Snow Saws with a homemade Sheath

All you need for this project is a mountain bike sized inner-tube section, duct tape, and velcro. Cut a section of the inner tube that allows for plenty of clearance for the length of the blade, all the way to about half the handle, allowing for a 1" or more fold at the end where the tip of the saw will be. Fold it over and duct tape well. At the handle end, play around with tapping on some sort of velcro closure, using trimmed down pieces of inner tube, that either routes through any holes in the handle, or to apply enough pressure to hold the sheath in place. The saw shown in the image is the Summit Snowsaw by SMC.

11) Knots for Mountaineering

A Mountaineer should know every knot listed below, as they encompass uses for most any scenario that may be encountered, including self-rescue. Click on the knot to be linked to an animated or video instructional. We recommend referencing the newest version of the book Freedom of the Hills, for instructions on tying knots, and their usages.

Know these Knots
-Figure 8 (knotting the end of your rappel lines (except in high winds))
-Figure 8 Follow Through (tying into a harness)
-Figure 8 on a bight (tying into an anchor)
-Double Figure 8-Bunny Ears-Useful for equalizing the load on two anchors, with one single line.
- Mule Knot with ATC type device (knot for tying off the belay or rappel when using a device)
-Alpine Butterfly (placing a knot in the middle of a rope, glacial travel) (easly untied when no longer needed, doesn't get too tight)
-Clove Hitch onto a open object (carabiner) (anchoring, linking anchors together...very adjustable)
-Clove Hitch onto a closed object (very adjustable knot for tying around a tree, chockstone, man-made object/anchor)
-Munter Hitch (aka Italian Hitch or HMS. HMS is an abbreviation for the German term Halbmastwurfsicherung, meaning 'half clove hitch belay'). This hitch is primarily used with a "H" type carabiner ( "pear-shaped" HMS carabiner), for belaying without a device.
-Munter Hitch with Mule (secure tie off for Munter Hitch)
-Fisherman's (aka Double Overhand) (safety knot, securing the excess tail from a knot)
-Overhand (safety knot, securing the excess tail from a knot)
-Grapevine (Double Fishermans) (tying prussiks, closing a loop of rope, tying two ropes together for a rappel)
-Bowline (and its variations) Anchoring or tying into a harness. More complex, expert use only (not so identifyable as being tied correctly)
-Water Knot (closing a loop in tubular webbing, or joining two pieces of webbing together, not recommended for ropes)
-Prusik Knot (ascending, or securing a line by use of a closed loop of 7mm cord)
-Purcell Prusik (makes a quick adjust personal anchor for clip in, rope ascension, replacing a daisy chain)
-Klemhiest (rope grab, or rope accension knot, useful with cord or webbing (unlike a prusik)

More Good Stuff on Knots

The links below are also excellent for learning/reviewing via a step-by-step animated video instructional on knots:
Learn How to Tie Popular Climbing Knots
or
Animated Knots Website

How to tie a Munter Hitch with one hand
How to tie a Bowline with one hand

Tips on Cordelettes, and determining length of material:

Cordelettes are used for all kinds of anchoring functionality, primarily at belays for multi-pitch traditional climbs. Using cordelettes allows the climber to establish the belay anchor without using any of the "lead climbing rope". Usually, two cordalettes are on your rack, as one cordelette remains at one belay station as the next belay above is established by the leader, who uses the second cordelette in that next anchor system. Your cordelette needs to have enough length to equalize in one system, up to three anchor points. The ideal length of nylon cord material for Cordelettes ranges with a minimum of 18'-21', and maximum of 30' (untied length). The ideal diameter is 7mm. Nylon is the prefered material based primarily on its dynamic qualities. Polyester has advantages in strength, especially as it is less water absorbant, but offers an average of 6% less in dynamic qualities. Go with Nylon.
When determining the length of cordage to buy to make your own cordelette, keep in mind how much cordage is used up by tying the double fishermans knot to close the loop. Use the following as a general guideline: A 7mm cord utilizes approximately 22" for the double fishermans knot, and 24" for 8mm. These knot length examples include allowance for the needed 2"-2.25" safety tail on both sides of the double fishermans.

Once an anchor is equalized, always use a frost knot or an overhand knot (in the case of not enough material) and attach to your personal anchor system (PAS) via a large locking carabiner, and/or belay device in the case of a top belay.

Other sizing notes on Cordelettes: For sport climbing you can use shorter lengthed cordelettes, as your bolted anchors are generally spaced closer together, thus not requiring additional material to equalize.

For Alpine/Trad routes, sometimes a 30' of cord is more versatile. In the case of using this length cordelette, there is usually no utility in closing the loop with a double fishermans, as when equilized, you can include/secure the ends within the frost or overhand knot.

Stuff on Prusiks and Purcell Prusiks

Prusiks
-Ideal thickness of your Nylon Cord should be around 2-3mm (60-80%) less than your line you are affixing the prusik to.
-With the exception of rescue applications (8mm cord for use with 11mm lines) where prusik minding pulleys are used, 6-7mm cord is normally ideal for use with most dynamic ropes in climbing applications.
-Your grapevine knot (double fisherman's) including a safe lenth of tail on both sides of the knot, used to make the prusik, will eat up 16" of your 7mm cord.
Ideal Tail Length: on either side of the double fisherman's (grapevine), leave a tail length of approximately 2"-2.25" (or if tying in the field, a little more than, but never less than the width of your first two fingers together) after hand tying. As a good general rule for both safety and material efficiency, your double fishermans tail length should be 6x the diameter of the cord you are using. For 7mm, this equates to 42mm (or around 1 3/4"), for 8mm, this equates to 48mm (or right at 2"). NOTE: this is the measurement you should have after the prusik knot has been sufficiently loaded. A good way to pre-tighten your prusik knot is to step inside one end of the loop with one foot, and pull up with your arms as hard as you can on the other end of the loop.

Shorter Prusik: Rappel Back-Up, General Use (safety, ascension)
-Ideal length of material needed for a rappel back-up prusik (on the brake side of the rope): 50" (includes lenth needed for the grapevine)
This "shorter" Prusik yields approximately a 16" finished Prusik, and after a triple wraped, dressed and set on 10-11mm line, you get a 6" opening for a connection point or hand placement.

Longer Prusik: General Use, Hands, Feet (Ascension)
-Ideal Length of material for general usage, or ascending for hands and feet (includes length need for the grapevine): 62"
This "longer" Prusik yields approximately a 22" finished Prusik, and after a triple wraped, dressed and set on 10-11mm line, you get a 14 " opening for a connection point or hand/foot placement.
-Good option for consideration: for feet, girth hitch a 2'-4' sewn runner through the prusik, giving you a variety of range.

Tip on using your standard length cordalette to make a long prusik with a double stirup for your feet (or single with two strands for more surface area coverage of the bottom of your foot). Double in half, manuever the double fisherman's knot to be about half way down. Now take a bight on either end and wrap your line with 2, maybe 3 wraps, as you do a prusik attachment. Now, you have a long prusik, with two loops for feet, or use both on one foot. (more to come on this, photo)

Purcell Prusiks
Anchoring and Ascending Length for Hands to Harness
-Ideal Length of material: (to come) )" of 7mm Nylon Cord

Ascending Length for Feet
-Ideal length of material: 14'-15' of 7mm Nylon Cord
-When tying, the distance from Eye (or single loop end) to the closing figure 8 knot, leave approximately a minimum of 9" and a maximum of 10.5", to allow for a triple wrap around a 10-11mm rope.
-If even more range is needed on the feet, consider girth hitching the eye (or single loop end of the purcell) onto a normal prusik .

General Guideslines when building your own custom length Prusiks or Purcell Prusiks

Figuring cordage lengths needed for tying Custom Length Prusiks

Step 1-On 7mm Nylon cord, your double fisherman's requires approximately 16" of material, this allows for 2.5" tail on both sides of the knot.
Step 2-The triple wrap, dress and set around a 10-11mm, requires approximately 18" of material.
-So, the smallest opening in the connection point you should ever want would be about 6", thus 12"(doubled because its a loop)of material.
Step 3-You can do the math from here on how much more length in the opening or connection point you want, then double that number to get the additional material required.

The Math
16" for the knot with tail
+18" for the wrap, dress and set
+12" for a minimum of 6" connection point opening
______
=Minimum of 46" of material. Then add the extra length you want (doubled).

Then cut that length of material and you are ready to tie your prusik.
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Custom Length Purcell Prusiks

Figuring cordage lengths needed for tyin Custom Length Purcell Pursiks
Step 1-Follow Step 1 and 2 above (unless using the Figure 8 Frost instead of a double fisherman's)
Step 2-If utilizing the Figure 8 Frost, instead of the double fisherman's, allow for (to come)" of rope to be taken up. (more info to come)
Step 3- 8.5"-9" of cord is taken up by the 2 over 3 prusik length adjusting knot in the purcell system (more accurate info to come)
Step 4-Your bight, or connection point should have a minimum opening of 9", max of 10.5". This allows for enough rope to triple wrap, dress, and set around a 10-11mm line. Also allows for plenty of cord length in the loop for a girth hitch. If only using via girth hitch to your harness, you can get a away with less than a 9" bight. Experiment with the harness you will be using.
Step 5: Figuring the rest of the length that will be required for useable range. (more content to come here). See examples of some lengths already worked out below.

Example of some useful lengths of Purcell Prusiks:
Medium Length Purcell Prusik (also see Prusik Ascending System below)
-11.5' of 7mm Nylon Cord for a Purcell Prusik, tied with a Figure 8 Frost, will yield a 12" range of adjustability, which is a range of height from 24 "-36" from a dressed and set prusik knot (attached to the rope). This is with a 9" bight for the connection point (which is the minimum you need for a triple wrap prusik knot, dressed and set on the line you are ascending). This would be considered a Medium length Purcell Prusik.

Long Length Purcell Prusik (also see Prusik Ascending System below)
-14' of 7mm Nylon Cord for a Purcell Prusik, tied with a Figure 8 Frost, will yield a 26" range of adjustability, which is a range of height from 26"-52" from a dressed and set prusik knot (attached to the rope). This is with a 9" bight for the connection point (which is the minimum you need for a triple wrap prusik knot, dressed and set on the line you are ascending). This would be considered a long length Purcell Prusik.
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Links to Videos on tying the Purcell Prusik:
How to tie a Figure 8 Frost for the Purcell Prusik
After closing the loop in your 7mm Nylon cord with either a Figure 8 Frost, or a double fisherman's, here is how to tie the rest of the Purcell Prusik.

The Prusik/Purcell Prusik Ascending System
Very Useful Links:
Ropes that Rescue Notes
Rope Rescue Manual by Desert Rescue (see pages 19 and 20)
Rescue Dynamics (scroll down to Purcell Prusik System diagram)
Swiftwater Rescue

In the Purcell Prusik Ascending system, one prusik and two Purcell Prusiks, all of different lengths, are used. It is important to experiment with the sizing of each, for your particular height and technique. See all the diagrams in the links above to get the idea.

1) The normal Prusik is your highest point of connection to the rope you are ascending, and is a "shorter" length loop. This length should reach from the point where it is attached to your harness to the top of your helmet, or higher. You may also clip a runner into the prusiks connection point to achieve the desired reach about your helmet.

2) Next, a "long" purcell prusik (perhaps made from 14' of 7mm cord as described above under "custom length purcell prusiks) loop is attached (triple wrapped, dressed and set) to the rope, and when your foot is in the stirup, the length should be adjusted reach to approximately the height of your nipple....but still leaving some ajustability of range in the purcell.

3) Finally, a "medium" length purcell prusik loop, when attached (triple wrapped, dressed and set) should reach from your other foot to around the level of your groin. Again, with this length, make sure there is still some adjustability range left in this purcell length...afording you options to adjust as needed.

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12) Sun Protection

Topics
____________
Sunscreens
Nose Guards
Hats and Hat Keepers
Glasses/Goggles

Climbing at higher elevations on reflective surfaces such as snow, ice, and some types of rock, exposes us to exacerbated effects of the sun's ultraviolet radiation. This demands special considerations and attention to protection from the damaging effects to the eyes and skin from the suns ultraviolet (UVB and UVA) rays. Careful selection and multiple applications of sunscreens for the face and lips, combined with specialized eye protection, nose guards, and a brimmed hat can make the difference required to stay adequately protected over the duration of your climb.

Sunscreens

Sunscreens provide aid in preventing ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun from penetrating the skin. There are two types of ultraviolet radiation, UVA and UVB, that are harmful to the skin and increase the risk of skin damage that can lead to skin cancer.

UVB is the type of ultraviolet radiation that is primarily responsible for sunburn, while UVA rays do most of the damage associated with "aging" of the skin. The UVA rays are also responsible for producing a risk of carcinogenic effect on the skin, especially when combined with joint damage from UVB rays. Sunscreens vary in their ability to protect against both UVA and UVB. Broad spectrum sunscreens are designed to protect against both UVB and UVA

What to know about a Sun Protection Factor (SPF)?
Most sunscreens with an SPF of 15 or higher do an excellent job of protecting against UVB. SPF — or Sun Protection Factor — is a measure of a sunscreen's ability to prevent UVB from damaging the skin. Here's how it works: If it takes 20 minutes for your unprotected skin to start turning red, using an SPF 15 sunscreen theoretically prevents reddening 15 times longer — about five hours.

Another way to look at it is in terms of percentages: SPF 15 blocks approximately 93 percent of all incoming UVB rays. SPF 30 blocks 97 percent; and SPF 50 blocks 98 percent. They may seem like negligible differences, but if you are light-sensitive, or have a history of skin cancer, those extra percentages will make a difference. And as you can see, no sunscreen can block all UV rays.

But there are problems with the SPF model: First, no sunscreen, regardless of strength, should be expected to stay effective longer than two hours without reapplication. Second, "reddening" of the skin is a reaction to UVB rays alone and tells you little about what UVA damage you may be getting. Plenty of damage can be done without the red flag of sunburn being raised.

The sun protection factor of a sunscreen is a laboratory measure of the effectiveness of sunscreen — the higher the SPF, the more protection a sunscreen offers against UV-B (the ultraviolet radiation that causes sunburn).

Another way to understand this is that SPF is the amount of UV radiation required to cause sunburn on skin with the sunscreen on, relative to the amount required without the sunscreen. So, wearing a sunscreen with SPF 50, your skin will not burn until it has been exposed to 50 times the amount of solar energy that would normally cause it to burn. The amount of solar energy you are exposed to depends not only on the amount of time you spend in the sun, but also the time of day. This is because, during early morning and late afternoon, the sun's radiation must pass through more of the Earth's atmosphere before it gets to you. In practice, the protection from a particular sunscreen, relative to climbing, depends on factors such as:

-Skin Type
-Multiple Applications
-Sweating
-Condition of susceptibility to increased exposure
-Timeliness of application

The best UVA protection is provided by products that contain zinc oxide, avobenzone, and ecamsule.

In extremely cold mountain climates, it is best to carry with you, several 1oz tubes of your selected sunscreen. These smaller tubes are more easily carried on your person (to prevent from freezing, and keep relatively warm for a more comfortable application) in a pocket that is on perhaps on the second clothing closest to your body. Usually one (1) tube being on your person, and the other tubes stored away in your pack. In the event one tube is dropped and lost, you have others. Carrying one large 4oz tube or larger is not recommended, as if dropped lost you are without protection or have to tap the supply of your partners, and these larger containers are more cumbersome to store on your person. If buying a larger container for pricing considerations, you can transfer to several 1oz plastic Nalgene containers, offered on this site.

Click here to view all the sunscreens we offer.

LABIOSAN: One notably excellent treatment for the lips and nose is Labiosan. Hard to find, but a tube lasts a very long time, well beyond one trip to Denali. Not only does the treatment give you solid protection from sun damage, but it also helps relieve chapped lips and fever blisters/cold sores.

Also, at very high elevations, it may be difficult to appropriatly apply sunscreens at the needed intervals with your bare hands. In these instances, we offer a "stick" sunscreen by Dermatone that can be easily applied to the skin while wearing mitts or gloves.

Nose Guards

For prolonged exposure to the sun, especially on snow and at higher elevations, a nose guard is essential. Although a nose guard does not protect the underside of your nose from the reflective rays bouncing up from the surface, it gets the job done by completely protecting your nose from the sun's damaging rays beaming down. These guards attach via a velcro strap to your sunglasses, and come in a range of sizes and colors. A nose guard also provides some added protection from wind and some cases can make the difference in the prevention of frostbite. We offer two brands of nose guards, Beko and NozKon. Beko nose guards are sized, and the NozKon is one size fits all.

Hats and Hat Keepers

Whenever possible from a temperature perspective, a vital preventative measure to protect your nose, face, and lips from the sun is to use a hat with a visor. It is preferred that you choose one that breathes and wicks, such as the Headsweats Race/Approach Hat, or the Headsweats Glacier/Protech Hat, which has a built in ear and neck cover. As an option, both versions of these hats are also available with the Bradley Alpinist "Up for a Tall Cold 1" logo: (See Race/Approach Hat with Bradley Alpinist Logo) (See Glacier/Protech hat with Bradley Alpinist Logo).

Because of the potential of high winds and wind gusts, simply tightening your hat on your head is both not enough, and its uncomfortable and sometimes causes headaches. A hat keeper helps prevent losing your hat from winds, attaching your hat to the back of the collar on your jacket, or other layer.

Glasses/Goggles

For all mountaineering and climbing applications, we recommend Julbo Eyewear. Most of the Julbo selection we offer are specially designed for mountain activity, complete with side shields to knock down wind and reflective light. We offer a variety of lenses, including the Julbo Zebra, which is a photochrromatic lens with adjusts to light intensity. All Julbo lenses are optical category 1, guaranteeing 100% protection against UVA, B and C radiation. See our Julbo Sunglasses and Goggles.

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13) Equipment Repairs & Custom Sewing

If you are in need of any type of nylon repairs to your equipment, or custom sewing done, contact:

Ripstop Repairs
2500 47th Street
Unit 11
Boulder, Colorado 80301

Phone: 303-443-7788
Email: info@ripstoprepairs.com
www.ripstoprepairs.com